It is a landscape Craig knows intimately, and for her, Devon is a place of ancient folklore and deeply atmospheric corners, where moss creeps over stone walls, sea mist rolls in without warning and stories seem to gather naturally in the landscape. Here she whisks us off on a whirlwind tour that takes in Dartmoor legends, cathedral cities, hidden bookshops, seawater swims and long pub lunches after windswept walks,
These, then, are the Devon addresses, views and rituals she returns to time and again.
For someone who’s never been to Devon before: what’s the very first place you’d take them?
Dartmoor, of course! Bren Tor with its tiny church on top the looming peak is spectacular, and there are lots of wild moor ponies nearby. Its wild beauty inspired a pivotal scene in my novel, where the six feuding friends are dumbfounded by a new revelation during a luxurious picnic.
I’m also a particular fan of the trail through Lydford Gorge. Shielded from the surrounding landscape by high rocky slopes, this area is semi-temperate, moist and rather spooky. The vicious Gubbins gang hid out in the caves of the Gorge in the sixteenth century, when they weren’t attacking and robbing passers-by. Today, a wishing tree is studded all over with oxidising pennies pushed in as votive offerings, the White Lady waterfall is said to be haunted by a watery bride all in white, while visitors to the thundering waters of the Devil’s Cauldron reportedly run the risk of being pulled under by the Devil himself.
If you only had one day in Devon and could only show someone three places, where would you take them – morning, afternoon and evening?
I’d start the day with a suitably decadent grazing breakfast at the pannier market in Tavistock, sampling all the delicious local foods brought together under one roof. The Market was granted its Royal Charter in 1105 and has continued for over 900 years, in 2025 it was crowned Britain’s best large indoor market. The Dartmoor Inn at Widgery Cross serves a hearty pub lunch, perfect for walkers after a health-giving ramble on the moors and with superb views over the landscape.
In the early evening, I would whisk them off to Exeter, to see the stunning Decorated Gothic cathedral, complete with what may be the world’s oldest cat-flap, cut at the request of one bishop to address the problem of mice trying to eat the tallow used to maintain the cathedral clock. A mere five minutes away is the third oldest synagogue in the United Kingdom. At over 250 years old, it survived an attempted arson in 2018 and continues to serve all Jewish denominations to this day.
Afterwards, the nearby Ship Inn serves real ales and has all sorts of old lore attached, from visits by Sir Francis Drake to gatherings of Civil War Royalists. There are rumours that it was at one time connected to the extensive tunnel network which runs under Exeter, and which sparked the idea to include spooky tunnels in my own novel.
Complete this sentence: ‘If you only see one thing in Devon, make it…’
Wistman’s Wood is a moss-covered delight of bright green boulders and stooping trees, straight out a fairytale and with its own local legends of slavering black hell-hounds attached. To see it is to re-enter the fancies of childhood. While the wood is very fragile and entry is no longer permitted, it is still worth coming up to the edge and peering into its wondrous, sinister shade.
What’s your favourite place in the Devon that most visitors don’t know about – but absolutely should?
Dartmoor Prison Museum is fascinating and well worth a visit. The prison, now condemned because of high levels of radon, was the place from which the convict Selden escaped in the Sherlock Holmes mystery The Hound of the Baskervilles. Used as an alternative to the unsanitary hulks for prisoners during the Napoleonic wars, then for people with serious mental illnesses and later on for ‘Conchies’ or conscientious objectors during the First World War, it spans the centuries. The minutiae of prisoners’ lives are well-explained and visitors can see everything from the food they ate, to the contraband they tried to hide away and learn about their horrible afflictions and ailments from cramped conditions on the hulks.
Which three shops in the Devon do you always find an excuse to visit?
Astor’s Bookshop in Chagford for their brilliantly curated book selections plus author events. The bookshop includes a charming little reading room and art supplies. MAKE Southwest in Bovey Tracey for exhibitions, workshops and gorgeously unique ceramics and jewellery
Exeter’s Quays for antiques – with a wide range of carefully selected curios, boxes and glassware you are bound to find a memorable treasure. It’s also dog-friendly!
Where do you go for a really good lunch and what do you order?
For a celebration lunch, you couldn’t do better than Lewtrenchard Manor. This Jacobean jewel has stained glass windows, ceiling mouldings and patterned floors, with lunch options ranging from a tasting menu encompassing venison, wood pigeon, fluffy homemade bread and local cheeses or a sumptuous sirloin Dartmoor beef Sunday lunch with Yorkshire puddings and line-caught sea bream. They also have a well-stocked bar including local gins.
You’re splashing out on a hotel: where do you go?
That would have to be the Endsleigh, a gorgeous hotel built in the early nineteenth century with rolling gardens, a wood-panelled reading room and the best cream tea I’ve ever had. The deep, romantic chasm was landscaped by William Kent for the earl of Portsmouth, there are lovely plantings, a real grotto and tumultuous tiny waterfalls, with the modern gothic house restored by Olga Polizzi. You’ll want to run through the halls wailing in a white nightgown, but you’ll be too full of good food.
And for a pampering/wellness fix?
Perhaps on the brisker side for wellness, but in my view there’s nothing like a seawater swim to restore you! Although it’s just over the border in Cornwall, Bude Sea Pool is partially natural and partially man-made, with sunbathing terraces and a great sea view. This one is a must-visit for the chance to float while watching the waves.
What about for a great coffee/tea fix?
The Curator has two locations in Totnes where it began and serves divine wood-roasted coffee with a selection of Italian sandwiches and pastries.
Who is your favourite local artist or maker – and where can people find their work?
Ambrose Vevers is an Ashburton-based woodsman who creates lovely wooden pieces from locally sourced wood, such as stools, spoons, lamps and cutting boards. Vevers manages a small woodland and has his own sawmill, allowing him to make use of valuable wood from old trees felled by heavy storms. He also teaches woodworking courses, bookable at Ambrosevevers.com. His commitment to traditional crafts and sustainability is admirable and his pieces are a wonderful addition to any home.
Where do you go when you’re celebrating?
Swanaford Winery offers a flight of three wines for just £15, or a longer and more indulgent tasting for those able to linger. Their range of still and sparkling wines are the perfect complement to a sunny day with friends, or for toasting all happy occasions.
And for a proper culture fix?
Budleigh Salterton literary festival is a five-day bonanza of all things bookish, plus a spring weekend every year. Closely connected with the late Hilary Mantel, it boasts an impressive range of guests every year including Mary Portas, Janice Hallett, Nussaibah Younis, Anne Sebba and many others.
Where do you go when you need a big view?
The beach at Westward Ho! Offers not just an inspiring name but also huge skies, sandy shores backed by a pebble ridge and a sense that all will be right with the world.
Finish this sentence: ‘If you really want to experience Devon properly, you should ___.’
Buy a pasty at the Lifton farm shop and take it to Witherdon Wood to enjoy wandering the well-maintained circular trails, admiring the abundant mosses and then enjoy a timeless, conveniently pocket-sized lunch sitting on a boulder.
Who is your ultimate local hero and why?
The downside of vast moors and impressive hills is that some locations are very hard to reach in an emergency. Devon Air Ambulance performs difficult and vital work saving critically injured or unwell people in remote locations and dangerous weather conditions. They are a critical part of making it possible for farmers to survive agricultural accidents or get to you if your hike goes very wrong. Devon Air Ambulance are also a registered charity.
FAQs: Devon
What is Devon best known for?
Devon is known for its dramatic coastlines, Dartmoor National Park, seaside towns, cream teas, surfing beaches and deeply rooted folklore. It is also home to thriving food, literary and arts scenes.
When is the best time to visit Devon?
Late spring through early autumn is ideal, particularly May to September, when gardens, coastal paths and moorland walks are at their best. Literary and food festivals also tend to peak during summer months.
Where should first-time visitors go in Devon?
Dartmoor is essential for first-time visitors, alongside Exeter, Totnes and the North Devon coastline. Wistman’s Wood, Lydford Gorge and the beaches around Westward Ho! offer particularly memorable landscapes.
Is Devon good for literary and cultural trips?
Very much so. Devon has long inspired writers and artists, from Agatha Christie to Ted Hughes, and hosts excellent events such as the Budleigh Salterton Literary Festival.
What food is Devon famous for?
Devon is celebrated for local seafood, Dartmoor beef, cream teas, farmhouse cheeses, cider and excellent farm shops. Traditional pubs and locally sourced tasting menus are common across the county.
Is Devon good for walking?
Yes – Devon is one of England’s best counties for walking, from rugged Dartmoor hikes and wooded river valleys to South West Coast Path walks with sweeping sea views.
Can you swim outdoors in Devon?
Absolutely. Wild swimming and sea swimming are hugely popular, with places such as Bude Sea Pool offering a particularly scenic experience just over the Cornwall border.
