Russell’s path there was an unusual one. The daughter of filmmaker Ken Russell, she grew up in the Borrowdale Valley in the Lake District before studying sculpture at Glasgow School of Art, where an interest in making and materials first took hold. A trip to India proved transformative: mesmerised by the craft of hand-block printing, she began working alongside Jaipur’s textile makers, eventually launching Pink City Prints in London. Here, she shares the cafés, forts, markets and makers that reveal the many layer of the Pink City.
For someone who’s never been to Jaipur before: what’s the very first place you’d take them – and why that spot, specifically?
After a long, journey there’s no better way to start a trip to Jaipur than unwinding with a drink under the stars. Bar Palladio is my go-to for new arrivals; think fun, creative cocktails, stunning hand-painted interiors and a range of food to fill you up post travel. The colour scheme is a fresh blue and white, with the walls intricately decorated with moghul flowers. Every detail is considered; from the playful chequerboard floor to the lush, floral motif pillows at every table. Perfect for relaxed drinks and dining.
If you only had one day in Jaipur and could only show someone three places, where would you take them – morning, afternoon and evening?
First stop in the morning would be Amer Fort. It’s best to get there early for two reasons. Firstly, you’ll avoid sightseeing in the midday heat, and secondly to avoid the crowds. Amer Fort is a really popular spot, offering intricate mirror art, beautiful hand painted motifs and epic views. For the afternoon, I’d stop for a lemon soda at the Wind View Cafe opposite the Hawa Mahal. There you get postcard prime views and people watching. I would skip going inside, the best view is from the outside. Instead, I’d head to the City Palace which is just moments away. Here you can see the beautiful Peacock Gates, the stunning arched palace interiors and historical artefacts too. Plus, the iconic Jaipur windows painted onto the pink walls. After a busy evening sightseeing, I’d head to The Johri for dinner. Beautifully decorated in soft shades of pink, the Johri offers rich, Indian food served in small portions made for sharing. It’s a lovely way to experience lots of different tastes in a cosy, relaxed environment.
Complete this sentence: ‘If you only see one thing in Jaipur, make it…’
The city centre! You have not experienced Jaipur if you haven’t walked past the iconic Hawa Mahal and seen the hustle and bustle of the market stalls. Known at the Pink City for a reason, Jaipur is filled with striking pink buildings, beautiful architecture and clever hand-painted details throughout. You’ll wander past jewellery stores, fabric stores and watch out for the snake charmers!
What’s your favourite place in Jaipur that most visitors don’t know about – but absolutely should?
For me, it’s the block-printing units and the wonderful craft community that is so central to Jaipur’s history. Most tourists skip this side of Jaipur and opt straight for the landmarks and the food. I’d recommend a trip to Nila House, which showcases a variety of different craft techniques and offers a range of educational workshops. You can learn about natural dyes and printing techniques as well as gathering lots of inspiration. It’s a little more peaceful than the rest of Jaipur and makes for a lovely change of pace. There are also various block printing workshops on offer in Jaipur where you can try your hand at the craft.
Which three shops in Jaipur do you always find an excuse to visit?
In Jaipur, you will find fewer options for conventional shopping as what people really enjoy is finding their own fabric and getting a tailor to stitch up their favourite dresses and shirts just for them. For soft hand looms, head to Satayam at Narain Niwas. There you will also find the Jaipur Rugs Boutique and Andraab’s silk soft cashmere scarves.
Where do you go for a really good lunch and what do you order?
Jaipur Modern is a wonderful oasis after a busy morning, offering a wide range of dishes from fragrant curries to comforting pastas. I’d order dumplings, rocket and goat’s cheese pizza, and finish with tiramisu. While you wait, you can browse their shop, which showcases local artisanal fashion brands celebrating Indian heritage.
You’re splashing out on a hotel: where do you go?
Tucked away 20 minutes from the centre of Jaipur, Samode Haveli offers the perfect luxury escape. It's a peaceful retreat whilst still being a stone’s throw from the most iconic attractions. The rooms are simpler, but the grounds are magnificent. Incredible wall paintings, a spectacular pool surrounded by trees and gardens.
Narain Niwas in the centre of Jaipur is the perfect choice for a pool day. Daily entry cost 1000 rupees – equivalent to £10 – so it really is a bargain compared to spas in the UK! You can sit back and enjoy a lime soda by the pool, or book in for massage treatments if you have the time.
What about for a great coffee/tea fix?
Anokhi Cafe is a great choice for fresh, healthy lunches and salads and it makes a lovely change from the richer, classic Indian food which most restaurants serve. Everything on the menu is vegetarian, using fresh, local organic ingredients to create a range of signature dishes. Don't miss out on their legendary banana or carrot cake – washed down by a cup of loose leaf early grey tea. The kick you need after a busy day in the city.
Who is your favourite local artist or maker?
Simon Priyam of Khanoom Studio has opened a pottery studio at Golcha Villa. You can visit, take a workshop and even paint your own pot – it’s a lovely hands-on creative experience.
Favourite local florist?
Check out the flower market near the City Palace. Get there around 8am to see the flower sellers selling bundles of marigolds and roses to be used as offerings and decorations. It's a feast of colour and sweet smells amongst the chaos of the market.
Where do you go when you’re celebrating?
Lalee’s, a beautifully decorated boutique stay with a charming café. Expect tiger murals, floral paintings and a menu ranging from Bengali thalis to eggs and bacon.
And for a proper culture fix?
Visit Anokhi Museum near Saga Lake to see their collection of old block designs and carvings. Watch the printers print the blocks inside this typical Jaipur haveli near the lake, it’s truly mesmerising.
Where do you go when you need a big view?
Nahargadh Fort has incredible views of the city. Head there for sunset and enjoy a beer and a poppadom as you watch the sky turn pink and the houses sparkle under the stars.
Finish this sentence: ‘If you really want to experience Jaipur properly, you should ___.’
Move there for a few months! There really is too much to do in the city for just a short holiday. To really experience the culture, the people and the joy the city has to offer, I’d recommend as long a trip as you are able. You’ll be fully immersed by the end and you won’t want to go home.
Who is your ultimate local hero and why?
My driver Suresh! Having someone with local knowledge to guide you through Jaipur is so helpful. Suresh seems to know what’s going on everywhere, at all times – I’m not sure how he does it. He’s always on hand to help with inside advice, shortcuts through the city and contacts for anything you need.
