High and Low, out 8 May, is the latest addition to her formidable oeuvre. As ever, it revisits characters long familiar to her readers (though it stands perfectly well alone). A loose sequel to A Vicious Circle, the 1994 novel that first brought her acclaim, it returns to the literary and journalistic worlds she skewers so well. This time, we find its protagonists in an invented north London enclave, Prospect Park, writing – with varying degrees of success – from its high street Literary Café. When that high street comes under siege from shoplifting, riots and murder, the novel lays bare a central tension of city life: privilege and precarity existing side by side.
Though fictional, the setting draws closely on Craig's own life. Having grown up in north London and remained there ever since, she knows the area intimately. Here, she shares her guide to its most compelling corners and enduring pleasures.
For someone who's never been to Camden Town before: what's the very first place you'd take them?
The famous Camden Lock – literally the lock, with its romantic willow tree and huge wooden gates in the canal that allow barges and boats to be lowered down or raised up. It's VERY touristy, though, so unless you are really thrilled by shops in the Stables Market or think it isn't stupid to score drugs, I'd move swiftly on to walking along the towpath, where it's much quieter and more atmospheric. If you walk north to Regent's Park and Primrose Hill, you'll see the backs of many smartened up Victorian warehouses (now flats) and private homes. Near the famous red Chinese junk boat (a floating restaurant) you can pop out near London Zoo and Regent's Park. If you're like me and prefer nature to crowds, head for Queen Mary's Rose Garden in the Inner Circle which has completely gorgeous flowers, and a landscaped garden including a little island and a small waterfall. The Regent's Park Open Air Theatre puts on some terrifically enjoyable plays in summer, including musicals and Shakespeare comedies (usually A Midsummer Night's Dream, for which it is the ideal venue). If you go South, you'll get to the amazing King's Cross including Granary Square with its many cafes and the Indian restaurant Dishoom, a floating bookshop, fountains that spring out of pavements, many designer clothes shops from Uniqlo to Paul Smith, a branch of Waitrose and a little covered food market.
If you only had one day in Camden Town and could only show someone three places, where would you take them – morning, afternoon and evening?
I'd catch the 214 bus from Camden Town to the bottom of Parliament Hill and have breakfast in one of the many excellent cafes like Kalendar or Trade in Swain's Lane. Then I'd walk up to the top of Parliament Hill for a panoramic view across London's city centre, including St Paul's Cathedral, the Shard and much more. On a hot summer's day and if I had a swimming costume and towel, I'd then walk on to the Highgate Ladies' Pond (or the Men's), two glorious open air natural ponds made where the River Fleet rises. If you don't mind swimming with ducks and swans, this is a delightful experience.
For lunch, Bread by Bike, the small independent cafe and sourdough bakery in Brecknock Road that was partly the inspiration for my Literary Cafe and Daily Bread. They do sandwiches and soups that will fill the most disgruntled writer trying to find inspiration in the bottom of a teacup.
In the evening, you could try the eclectic mix of music at Egg on York Way, if you like clubbing, or see a play at the Hampstead Theatre if you don't. Camden Lock has the six cinema Curzon cinema under the railway arches, which always had at least one great movie showing, and very comfortable chairs, while the O2 Forum in Kentish Town showcases the hottest pop bands. The Parakeet in Kentish Town is a lively (if deafeningly loud) restaurant serving very good European style food.
Complete this sentence: 'If you only see one thing in Camden Town, make it…'
Primrose Hill will be familiar to anyone who has seen the first two Paddington Bear films – the Browns live in Chalcot Crescent, right opposite my own old family home. It's deeply associated with writers – Dickens lived nearby, as did the poets Yeats, Ted Hughes and Sylvia Plath, VS Pritchett, Michael Frayn, Claire Tomalin, Martin Amis, Beryl Bainbridge and Alan Bennett. It has a beautiful small park, a street of charming cafes, restaurants and shops, and a gentle Bohemian but chic vibe that is the best of Camden. It's also where I (partially) grew up.
What's your favourite place in the Camden Town that most visitors don't know about – but absolutely should?
The Roundhouse at Chalk Farm. It's a huge Victorian former railway engine shed, circular because it is where steam trains used to turn. During the 1960s it became a top counterculture venue hosting bands like Pink Floyd, The Doors, The Clash and Jimi Hendrix. Now it hosts all kinds of shows from live music to circus to spoken word events. Totally Camden!
Which three shops in the Camden Town do you always find an excuse to visit?
Primrose Hill Bookshop in Regent's Park Road is a tiny cornucopia crammed with a perfect mix of books, though the wonderful Owl Bookshop in Kentish Town High Street, being larger, is also seductive to any reader. The Camden Outdoor Emporium on Camden Road sells the best-priced walking boots (and camping gear) I have ever found. I also love Fleming Fine Antiques in Camden Lock though it's a bit like being an addict and visiting a crack den.
Where do you go for a really good lunch and what do you order?
Sam's Café in Chalcot Road, Primrose Hill. It's a favourite haunt of fellow-writers and is owned by the distinguished novelist Andrew O'Hagan. Everything is fresh and beautifully cooked, whether it's a burger and fries or a Caesar salad.
I also love the London Shell Co in Swain's Lane, an outstanding fish and seafood restaurant. It has the best soda bread outside Ireland, outstandingly inventive cooking and puddings to die for.
What about for a great coffee/tea fix?
The Granary Square Brasserie (owned by the Ivy Group) is always busy but is delightful indoors and out and makes proper coffee and tea. I usually meet my favourite people there.
Who is your favourite local artist or maker – and where can people find their work?
Chris Ruocco on Fortess Road is master tailor to stars of stage, screen and pop and a fantastic craftsman. (open only Weds and Saturdays). We got our son his 30th birthday suit there and it is worth every penny.
Favourite local florist?
The Real Flower Company shop in Swain's Lane has enchanting, eco-friendly, English-grown flowers and herbs put together by florists with real taste and flair
Where do you go when you're celebrating?
The Bull & Last gastropub by Hampstead Heath – really excellent food and a relaxed atmosphere. Upstairs is smarter.
Where do you go when you need a big view?
Parliament Hill, You can gaze out across the centre of London, as far as the South Downs.
Who is your ultimate local hero and why?
It's a toss-up between Charles Dickens and George Orwell – both great writers, story-tellers and novelists whose prose, ideas and principles have inspired my own work.
Image: Charlie Hopkinson
High & Low, £20, is published by Little Brown and comes out on 8 May. Buy High & Low
