Between raising a family and making, teaching and writing, Dorset has grown to become both home and creative anchor – a place whose hills, fields and coastline inform everything about the way she lives. Here, she shares the places and people of her adopted county that mean the most to her.
For someone who’s never been to Dorset before: what’s the very first place you’d take them – and why that spot, specifically?
Dorset has so much to offer, it's hard to know where to start! I'd probably start at home, which is near Shaftesbury, and I'd take them on a walk around where I live. It's one half of a couple called Andrew and Mary (I live in the Andrew part), in a valley which is full of songbirds and our field with Shetlands swishing their tails. I'd take this guest down to the stream, and they would quickly pick up on the special atmosphere in the air. I spend so much time in this field, chopping branches, clearing watercress from the stream and gently grooming the ponies. Last year I learnt how to use a tractor, and went up and down cutting the grass, and the year before rented a chainsaw to lop branches. That didn't last very long as I got the chainsaw stuck in a branch and had to find a nice builder working locally to come and release it. I am pretty relaxed by nature, but I realised that I was out of my depth. Even for me who does not adhere to health and safety, this was pushing my luck! This field provides me with so much joy, even just standing in it, watching the ducks fly overhead. We spend a lot of happy time in here.
If you only had one day in Dorset and could only show someone three places, where would you take them – morning, afternoon and evening?
In the morning I'd take them to our local Ludwell Village Shop for the best local takeaway coffee and pastry (let's assume they come for a weekend as that's when the pastries are there). The takeaway coffee is unbelievably delicious, and the almond croissant so ludicrously decadent. Then we would go to Kensons Farm and pick up some of the best organic veg grown by Hugh and Liz on their farm. We would trundle home and cook up our lunch and then set off to the sea, over the hills and down to the coast with our picnic. Kimmeridge is where I take the children as we have some kayaks, and there is a slipway where we can plop them into the water and enjoy the day. My favourite thing is being in my wetsuit, lying like a whale on my boogie board, barely moving, and just enjoying the gentle lap of the water whilst the children play with the kayaks. Inevitably, one will have a puncture and there will be screams and cries and I will try not to hear them until we have to go and get an ice cream. We'd come home as the sun sets, gazing at the beauty of the Dorset hills, so unspoilt by time. It feels like Enid Blyton down there, and you could easily have stepped back in time to the 1970s. Anyway, back home to a barbecue in the garden with friends coming to join us, laughter, wine and music that I've been allowed to play (my children usually turn my music off).
Complete this sentence: ‘If you only see one thing in Dorset, make it…’
If you only see one thing in Dorset, make it hills, which are many, and all so very beautiful, rolling and heavenly.
What’s your favourite place in Dorset that most visitors don’t know about – but absolutely should?
My favourite place in Dorset is the wood between me and Wardour. I was only shown this wood last year by a friend and it's changed my life. I come from the Highlands of Scotland and I love trees – so much so that my mother begged me to not put ANOTHER picture up of a tree on the family Whatsapp. Anyway, we don't really have trees down here like we do in Scotland, so when I was shown this pine wood just up the road (I'm not exactly sure how I missed this) it made me feel like I was back home. The smell of the pines, the height, the magic of the light between the trees. There is a blissful walk through this wood to Wardour Castle. I've got very special memories of this with different people, doing different things and I adore it.
Which three shops in Dorset do you always find an excuse to visit?
Firstly, Fox and King in Tisbury. I am not a huge shopper, but what Dorset lacked was a really good bookshop, especially after the amazing travel bookshop in Semley sadly closed. Last year Fox and King opened, and it is the greatest gift to Dorset. Strictly speaking it's in Wiltshire, but only by a minute or two. It’s like a Daunt Books, and is heaven on earth. There is a glass blower in Childe Okeford called Esme Sharp. I was taken there by a friend and her glasses are incredible. Always the biggest treat being in the workshop of a creative genius, and she is one. I wanted to pack my entire car with beautiful glasses. Third is Kensons Farm – it has a shed which they open twice a week, and you can go and choose your veg. That, to me, is a perfect shop. They sell amazing home-grown flowers and everything feels so happy and vibrant and well. Last year I wanted to get some tomatoes for a curry and Liz let me go to the polytunnel and help myself. I was early, so I spent the happiest ten minutes on my own with the rows of the last tomatoes of the season. These three places are very special shops.
Where do you go for a really good lunch and what do you order?
The Compasses. I had my 40th birthday here and it is a 16th-century hobbit-like pub with uneven cobbles, low ceilings and the most delicious food. It's my favourite pub and my favourite place to eat. Perfect cosy atmosphere. I can never resist ordering a burger when I go to a pub. I fall into a habit and then find it so hard to branch out. When something works, I tend to stick with it. (I've used the same Eve Lom cleanser for 26 years – probably a terrible sign of laziness but once I find something I like it's so much easier to stay with it!)
What about for a great coffee/tea fix?
Weirdly, I've never drunk tea in my life. Not even and in fact especially not herbal tea. Coffee I do adore, and got into that quite late in life, but it's such a treat. I like all variations on it; normal milk/oat milk/ almond/ black/ cappuccino – really any way. My favourite place to get it is the aforementioned Ludwell Village Shop.
Who is your favourite local artist or maker – and where can people find their work?
There have to be two here, I can't choose. Alex Robinson and Octavia Mackenzie. Both are creative genius artists and makers. Alex's wobble lamps/ collages are found in beautiful stylish homes all over the world. Octavia's glass paintings/ illustrations/work is divine and she illustrated the children's book Archie's Apple.
Favourite local florist or plant shop?
I have four great friends who are made up of two couples. All four are unbelievably skilled plantspeople. Isabel and Julian, who are well known garden designers, and Eyzie and Ro. They all give me plants and I treasure them and try my hardest to keep them alive. I wander around their gardens in awe of their skill. The plants sing literally for joy in their gardens and thrive. I can't think of better plantspeople. These people create magical kingdoms. I don't go to florists very often at all, if ever.
Where do you go when you’re celebrating?
I'd go to the pub – either, as above, The Compasses or The Talbot, which is up the road, and owned by great friends. Mostly I'd celebrate at home though with friends. This house is full of friends a lot of the time and I love that. Local friends are treasured and cherished enormously by me.
And for a proper culture fix?
Stonehenge is quite a landmark. I finally made it to the solstice in December with a friend and her three children – a friend who is so organised and brilliant that she brought bacon rolls and hot chocolate to have by the stones at sunrise. We wrote wishes and left them scrumbled up in little pieces by the stones for them to read and grant should we be lucky enough. One can drive past regularly and gaze out the window at it, but there was something very special about being close to the stones and celebrating the shortest day of the year with a group of very gentle Druids, banging drums and praising the wind from the east, south and west. I adored it. The reason I love Dorset so much is because of the energy here. It draws a certain type of character – 99 per cent are unusual, creative and amazing. I know only two challenging people down here, the rest are divine.
Where do you go when you need a big view?
I took my eldest children up in a hot air balloon once and it was one of my favourite experiences. So peaceful, so remarkably unspoilt – the view of down below. We live in paradise, and I'm only too aware of that and literally count my lucky stars every day that I live here.
Finish this sentence: ‘If you really want to experience Dorset properly, you should ___.’
Go to the markets and stalls on a Thursday in Shaftesbury to see the old people in the town hall selling their food produce, home-grown vegetables, and knitted goods. These are the old people of Dorset who have not changed and are so wise and knowledgeable about the area. I've been here for 17 years and still feel young (tragically, I’m not), and as if I've just moved when I'm with these wonderful old stall holders.
Who is your ultimate local hero and why?
Rod, who has lived here forever. When my grandmother died, she left me some money and I decided to put it into a garden in our previous home. Rod was suggested to us to do the building of the beds. He has been in our lives ever since and is one of those people who makes life better just by being there. Rod can do anything, anything at all. He has four dogs, lives with his wife and sister-in-law, and is always ready with a smile. He has been like a grandfather to my youngest children who don't have one alive anymore and has taught my youngest how to be a builder. A local hero who we as a family worship.
Take Five: Dorset’s Best
Best bakery: Lievito Bakery
Best pub: Compasses Inn
Best farm shop: Kensons Farm
Best place for gifts: Fox and King
Place to escape the crowds: Wardour Woods
