What
The Permit Room in Oxford, which opened at the tail end of 2024, is the latest outpost from the beloved team behind Dishoom, and it delivers Bombay comfort food with irresistible flair. A tribute to the lively permit rooms of mid-century Bombay – where the rules relaxed and good food and illicit tipples flowed freely – this restaurant has a fun, familiar feel from the moment you step in. There's whimsy everywhere (even the Wi-Fi network is called ‘Chai-Fi’), and the experience manages to be both tongue-in-cheek and deeply satisfying.
Where
Perfectly placed on New Inn Hall Street, just a stone’s throw from the Bodleian and the bustle of Cornmarket, The Permit Room is that rare thing: a city-centre eatery that caters equally to quick stop-ins, lingering family dinners, and date-night feasts. The interior is retro-Bombay with a British accent – think warm lighting, patterned floors, friendly clutter, and a vinyl-spinning DJ booth tucked by the bar.
To Start
We kicked things off with crunchy chakli – crisp, savoury spirals that crumble just so, made to be scooped through a sweet-tart mango chutney. It set the tone for the kind of snacking you hope will never end. The spinach chaat followed, and it was a thing of textural and flavour-layered beauty – crisp-fried spinach leaves bathed in cool yoghurt, laced with tangy tamarind and crowned with pomegranate seeds. You get crunch, cream, and a whisper of sweetness in every bite. Samosas arrived, too – perfectly golden and packed with spiced vegetables – which we had to wrestle from our nine-year-old daughter, who became quite possessive of them. And fair enough. They were that good.
The Main Event
It would be remiss not to mention the Dishoom black daal – cooked for over 24 hours in a haze of butter and cream until it becomes almost stew-like in its richness. It’s less of a dish and more of an edible embrace. Alongside it, we tore into squares of garlic naan – sliced for sharing and wonderfully moreish, spicy, soft, and buttery with just the right garlicky hum. The chicken puff brought the warmth of the Keralan coast: flaky pastry encasing tender pepper-fried chicken, hearty and full of soul. For meatier indulgence, the chicken pick-me-ups – gloriously gnawable little drumsticks – were served with a fiery sauce and carried the joyful vibe of a Henry VIII feast, via Delhi. Our daughter, meanwhile, was deeply content with her paneer fingers, only breaking from her own joyous eating to sip through a drinks procession worthy of its own menu section: mango lassi (declared ‘amazing’), sweet chai, and a fizzy ice cream soda. She had to pause frequently for strategic breaks – a surefire sign that delight was in progress.
To Finish
Desserts here are no afterthought. The mango soft serve was bright and breezy – a palate cleanser masquerading as pudding – while the chocolate brownie with malai was sheer indulgence. A warm, dark square of fudgy pleasure came draped in cool milky malai, scattered with jaggery and a flicker of chilli heat. It was the kind of dish you’d happily order again for breakfast the next day, if they’d let you.
To Drink
While we enjoyed a couple of crisp, refreshing glasses of Chin Chin Vinho Verde, it was the cocktails that really stood out – not only for their flavour but for their theatrical presentation. Served in miniature ‘drink-me’ bottles, each arrived with a little flourish and plenty of character. The mango lassi punch was a tropical delight, while the old fashioned and the summertime negroni offered darker, bittersweet contrast. The playfulness made the whole thing feel like a story unfolding – a little Mad Hatter meets Bombay barroom.
The Service
What truly elevated the meal, though, was our waitress Mansi. From the outset, she was warm, attentive and unflappable – offering spot-on recommendations and treating our daughter with gentle, genuine charm and warmth. She struck that rare and precious balance: always available, never hovering. When we inevitably over-ordered, she packed up the remaining dishes with a smile and zero fuss, sending us home with leftovers that turned dinner into a sequel worth waiting for.
How Much
Expect to spend around £30–£40 per head if you’re eating generously (and you absolutely should), more with cocktails. For the quality, the atmosphere, and the experience, it’s excellent value – especially when you consider the portion sizes and the warmth of the hospitality. With its joyful tone, killer food, and rare sense of fun, The Permit Room is the kind of place that lingers long after the last spoonful of daal.
