And now, thanks to a subtle but hugely effective menu revamp, there’s a whole host of new dishes and drinks that make coming here a real pleasure – although don’t worry, plenty of old favourites still made the cut, including the legendary black daal.
What
The Permit Room in Oxford, which opened at the tail end of 2024, is the latest outpost from the beloved team behind Dishoom, and it delivers Indian comfort food with irresistible flair. A tribute to the lively permit rooms of mid-century Bombay – where the rules relaxed (hence the name) and good food and illicit tipples flowed freely – this restaurant has a fun, familiar feel from the moment you step in to be warmly greeted by the friendly yet highly professional staff. There's whimsy everywhere (even the Wi-Fi network is called ‘Chai-Fi’), and the experience manages to be both tongue-in-cheek and deeply satisfying.
Where
Perfectly placed on New Inn Hall Street, just a stone’s throw from the historic sights of Broad Street and the bustle of Cornmarket, The Permit Room is that rare thing: a city-centre eatery that caters equally to quick stop-ins, exuberant family dinners, and date-night feasts. The interior is retro-Bombay with a British accent – think warm lighting, patterned floors, friendly clutter, and a vinyl-spinning DJ booth tucked by the bar. Things can get loud, sure, but that’s all part of the fun.
To Start
While we may have missed the chicken puff of old, its lack has been more than made up for by the addition of Permit Room fried chicken – the stuff of cross-cultural and continental flavour dreams – and to-die-for garlic pepper prawns, which are spiced to perfection and have the delightfully moreish quality of a really good appetiser. But if you were a fan of the older dishes, then please be assured, the baby has not been thrown out with the bathwater. The near-legendary spinach chaat is still a fixture on the menu – which is just as well, as if ever it was taken off, there’d be a riot – and although we didn’t have space to try them, the samosas, in both vegetarian and lamb, are hanging on in there.
The Main Event
It would also be impossible for the black daal – Permit Room’s parent company Dishoom’s hero dish – ever to disappear from the menu – the culinary equivalent of the ravens leaving the Tower of London. Cooked for over 24 hours in a haze of butter and cream until it becomes almost stew-like in its richness, it’s less of a dish and more of an edible embrace. But there are some wonderful new options, not least the deliciously juicy lamb chops, which have just the right balance between char and chewiness. For the greedy, there’s also a much-requested mixed grill, which features aforementioned chops alongside half a tandoori chicken, wings and a trio of lamb kebabs along with chutneys and kachumber. Or alternatively you could plump for the chicken biryani, a delightful marriage of meat and rice. Alongside it, we tore into squares of garlic naan – sliced for sharing and wonderfully moreish, spicy, soft, and buttery with just the right garlicky hum. And make sure that you order a raita, which cuts through the spice superbly.
To Finish
Desserts here are no afterthought. The raspberry sorbet is refreshingly tart – no sugary silliness here - while the chocolate brownie with malai was sheer indulgence. A warm, dark square of fudgy pleasure came draped in cool milky malai, scattered with jaggery and a flicker of chilli heat. And don’t forget the mango lassi, which practically qualifies as a sweet treat in its own right.
To Drink
While the short, well-chosen wine list throws up a couple of delicious glasses of Rumblefish Vinho Verde, as well as some intriguing ‘White Lies’ orange wine, it was the cocktails that really stood out – not only for their flavour but for their theatrical presentation, which just goes to show how fun these things can be. Served in miniature ‘drink-me’ bottles, each arrived with a little flourish and plenty of character. The mango lassi punch was a tropical delight, while the old fashioned and the new summertime negroni offered darker, bittersweet contrast. For devotees of the Margarita, we nudge you (somewhat insistently) towards the new Orange Wine incarnation of the classic, which is gloriously heady and brings together two of our quaffable obsessions together in with a pleasing punch. And if you want a miniature to see you out the door happy and replete, order the ‘two sips’ Sazerac or Feni martini, and have a short but potent blast of alcoholic delight for just over a fiver.
How Much
Expect to spend around £40-£50 per head if you’re eating generously (and you absolutely should), more if you go to town on the cocktails. For the quality, the atmosphere, and the experience, it’s excellent value – especially when you consider the portion sizes and the warmth of the hospitality. With its joyful tone, flawlessly slick service, wonderful food – perhaps all the better since the menu revamp - and pervasive sense of fun, The Permit Room is the sort of place where you can let your hair down for a really good time. Make plans to visit soon.
