What
A fresh slice of culinary brilliance has landed in Aldgate East, tucked into the ground floor corner of a sleek new development in this ever-evolving, always lively pocket of London. The mastermind behind it is chef and restaurateur Murat Kilic, already well known in the neighbourhood for his first venture, Amber – a beloved Middle Eastern-inspired small plates spot just down the road. Amber blends sharp, modern cooking with a heartwarmingly old-school sense of hospitality.
As their motto proudly proclaims: ‘Whoever you are. Wherever you’ve come from. You’ll be welcomed with open arms.’ This isn’t just a slogan; it is clear that it’s a deeply held and guiding tradition – and one that continues at Ara, Amber’s elegant yet cool new sister. From the moment you step inside, the welcome is warm, the setting is stylish, and it’s clear the kitchen is up to something special. Less specifically Middle Eastern and more an ode to Murat’s travels, cherry-picking the most interesting dishes wherever he goes, the result is considered, sensational and pleasingly hard to pigeonhole.
Where
Just steps from Aldgate East tube, in an area that never sits still. Leave it a few months between visits, and a new building will inevitably have sprung up and so it is with New Drum Street – a development masterplanned by architects Allies & Morrison – where Ara occupies a slice-of-cake shaped footprint on the ground floor.
It could have been a tricky space, but for interior designer Nina Woodcroft of Nina + Co (you may know her from Silo) the unusual dimensions seem only to have spurred her ingenuity. The warm, terracotta-toned design is perfect for hot, heady nights that transport diners straight to the Med – yet it would, we have no doubt. feel equally inviting on a chilly London evening.
Deeply textural, the space features table tops and a bar façade made from recycled Smile Plastics sheets, and upholstery crafted from pineapple leather sourced from discarded fruit on pineapple farms. The emphasis here is, then, firmly on conscious design and sustainability.
It’s such a labour of love that Georgie, our charming waitress, tells us how Nina often stops by just to plump the seats. We don’t blame her – everything here cries out to be touched, right down to the terracotta tiles in the loo. (Weird, us?)
To Start
We kick off with some nibbles for the table: corn ribs come dusted in umami and are sweet with both a kick and a pleasing crunch; the sourdough, meanwhile, is not only top-tier in itself but is served with souped up butter (our favourite thing) thanks to the addition of fermented chilli and honey. It is in exceptional and represents in microcosm the rest of the menu here: everything is about the most perfect balance of textures and flavours. And finally, since we are fiends for an unusual loaf, we greedily devour the grilled potato bread with cultured butter, which is scored beautifully, perfectly golden, and lasts about a minute before we’ve scoffed the lot.
Those ravenously despatched, we move on to the small plates: pillow-soft burrata melts beautifully, delicately balanced with chilli peanuts and sweet apricot; fried chicken is so moreish that gnawing on its succulent meat makes us feel like a certain king with a penchant for dispatching wives; and the mushroom dumplings are more ravioli than dim sum, the earthy flavours lifted beautifully thanks to garlic yoghurt, mint and Aleppo chilli butter. Add in the warm service, and you’ve got the kind of start that leaves you plotting your return before mains even arrive.
The Main Event
Unlike most small plate spots that under-deliver on large dishes, Ara leans into generosity. We share a slow-cooked short rib, which falls tenderly off the bone and is served with a bright white grape salsa that sings. It’s rich, satisfying and enough for three – though we aren’t exactly dainty about it. Vegetarians and pescatarians, take note: sweetheart cabbage contramar and skate wings with macadamia and lemongrass also tempt. We vow to return.
To Finish
Three puddings, no regrets: crème fraîche ice cream with lime and pistachio crumble (pure, elegant simplicity); semolina halva with preserved lemon and whipped coconut; and a knockout chocolate Basque cheesecake with desiccated coconut and whey caramel. Bitter-sweet perfection.
To Drink
No evening at Ara should go without a thorough exploration of the cocktail menu: our investigations begin with a smoked pineapple Old Fashioned with Bulliet bourbon, smoked pineapple syrup and smoked bitters, which is a triumph of sophisticated flavour. A cucumber and mint daiquiri, meanwhile, with rum, lemon juice, mint sugar syrup and egg white is pleasingly frothy, light – and entirely too drinkable on a balmy evening. These are followed with a glance down the excellent wine list, devised by GM Wade Mundford and characterised by its excellent array of biodynamic wines. The wine list, curated by GM Wade Mundford, leans biodynamic. We go crisp with Sauvignon Blanc before moving on to a bottle of Rioja Azabache – its deep plum notes a sublime match for the short rib. Sated and happy, our arms are nonetheless twisted to try a nip of homemade limoncello. We make no overstatement when we say it’s better than anything we’ve sipped on the Amalfi coast.
How Much
Small plates from £9.50 to £14; mains between £21 and £27. For this level of cooking, an absolute steal.
Book it.
