What
Osip, a name chosen for its simple, pared back appeal, is chef Merlin Labron-Johnson's farm-to-table restaurant with rooms and a Michelin star in the arty heart of Somerset.
Where
A modest, whitewashed former pub in a sleepy village outside Bruton, Somerset.
To Start
We stepped through the front door and a luxe leather curtain, made by local designer Bill Amberg, and felt immediately rooted in Osip world. The unassuming bar and lounge area set the tone for the whole experience, whose top-notch quality, good taste and minimal fuss pervades. While we drink an aperitif, Artichoke Negronis in our case, the fire crackled and a perfect light cast on chic art. Then the feast began, with two canapes (dried beetroot tart and little roll of mallard ham) of such elegance that we knew we were in for a happy ride.
The Main Event
Soon it was time to leave the earthy bar and head for our table, where trad white tablecloths made a simple canvas for an exciting array of locally made ceramics. First, we had root vegetable broth accompanied by fermented potato bread; next came chilled asparagus soup topped with a crispy lovage leaf, a maitake mushroom and roasted yeast tart and scallops with artichokes. Then it was the big moment: roast lamb of such delicious subtlety we doubt it can be beaten in a lifetime. We chose the supplementary cheese course and were rewarded with warm, gooey Bath Soft Cheese on malt loaf. Gluttonous, sure – but it was my favourite course of them all (not that there was a duff bite among them).
And Finally
A rhubarb sorbet on granita cleansed the palate before the real pudding came our way. One of my companions described the little tart of nuts, mead and honey as 'rather like a posh Nature Valley bar – in a good way'. Just when we thought we couldn't take another bite, two tiny plates of petits fours (pistachio macarons and the poshest fruit pastilles) arrived and, funnily enough, we realised we could.
The Vibe
Modern British fine dining at its proudest and coolest, woven through with a focus on all that is natural, local and honest.
The Takeaway
Every mouthful was a winner. Expensive, spoiling and unforgettable, Osip is the quintessential treat.
Images: Dave Watts
