The Vibe
Tucked away beneath the chichi streets of Knightsbridge, Hawksmoor is all dark wood, leather banquettes and soft amber lighting. There’s a touch of old-school glamour, yet nothing feels contrived or fussy. This is a chain – though its atmosphere deftly belies that fact – that knows exactly what it is doing and what its punters want (meat: perfectly cooked and lots of). The atmosphere is buzzy but never loud, making it as well suited to family dining as to a smart night out. In short, it’s the kind of place where you feel immediately at ease. No forced coolness, no scene-chasing décor; rather warmth, polish and quiet confidence.
The Food
For a restaurant that has built its reputation on meat, Hawksmoor never rests on its carnivorous laurels. The menu is an ode to robust, confident British cooking, and the execution is flawless.
A prawn cocktail opened the show – not, we should note, a dated nod to 70s dinner parties, but a fresh and finely balanced classic. Plump prawns, sharp Marie Rose sauce, and crisp lettuce came together with poise and balance. Alongside, a warm loaf of Guinness bread was a minor revelation: thick-crusted, malty, and soft within. It needed only a slather of butter to become dangerously addictive.
Starters continued with crab on toast: sweet, unadorned white crabmeat piled high on charred sourdough and brightened with citrus. A plate of smoked salmon, meanwhile, was elegantly restrained, served simply and allowing the fish do the talking.
But, of course, it was the main event where Hawksmoor truly flexed its muscles. A 300g rib-eye steak, ordered medium-rare, landed with a smoky char and deep pink interior. The Béarnaise sauce, fragrant with tarragon, played a perfect supporting role, while the triple-cooked chips were a masterclass in crunch and fluff.
Elsewhere, a chargrilled chicken breast offered a lighter alternative but was no less satisfying: juicy, smoky, and seasoned just so. A bubbling cast-iron skillet of macaroni cheese arrived like a secret weapon in the arsenal of feeding fussy children – cheesy, creamy, and blistered on top. As ever, the proof is in the pudding and, in the case of this macaroni, it disappeared with record speed.
And so to the actual puddings, which didn’t let the side down. A sticky toffee sundae arrived with all the flair of a showstopping finale – layers of warm pudding, cool vanilla ice cream and molten caramel, all perfectly balanced.
The Crowd
This isn’t a room chasing headlines; rather it’s full of people who know what they like and keep coming back for more of it. On any given evening you’ll spot couples leaning into candlelight, friends sharing steak and wine, and families enjoying a celebratory meal without a sniff of pretension. Staff manage the floor with a light touch and genuine warmth, equally happy to guide first-timers through the menu or indulge young diners' curiosity with the same level of attention and charm.
The Verdict
In a part of London where many restaurants are more about gloss than truly good food, Hawksmoor Knightsbridge is the real thing. Its magic lies in its ability to elevate the familiar: great steak, superb sides, and perfectly made cocktails. Add to that the impeccable service and warm, clubby setting, and you’ve got a rare beast: one that delivers on flavour, consistency and atmosphere.
By Alexander Larman
