But what actually are polynucleotides, and do they live up to the hype? Here's everything you need to know before booking in with your dermatologist.
First, what are polynucleotides?
Polynucleotides are fragments of DNA – specifically, long chains of nucleotides, which are the building blocks of DNA and RNA. In skincare, they’re typically derived from salmon sperm (yes, really – more on that later), and used in injectables to stimulate the body’s own regenerative processes. The result? A boost in collagen, elastin, hydration, and skin resilience; skincare from the inside out.
While they’ve been used in wound healing and ophthalmology for years, polynucleotides are only now entering the beauty mainstream and are quickly becoming the insider injectable of choice.
So what makes them different?
Think of them as a ‘bio-revitaliser’ rather than a filler. Unlike hyaluronic acid injections, which simply add volume or hydration, polynucleotides trigger your skin to regenerate and repair itself over time. It’s like giving your skin the code to repair its own damage. They can calm inflammation, stimulate collagen production, and improve tissue quality over time.
In other words: they don’t just make skin look better. They help skin become better.
What can they treat?
Polynucleotides are particularly effective for improving skin texture and tone. Think dullness, fine lines, crepey skin, under-eye hollowness, acne scarring, and even inflammation-related conditions like rosacea or atopic dermatitis. They’re also frequently used in areas where other injectables struggle to perform - under the eyes, neck, back of the hands and even scalp.
Wait – did you say salmon sperm?
Yes, and before you raise an eyebrow, here’s why: salmon DNA is structurally very similar to human DNA, making it highly biocompatible. It’s also incredibly pure and safe to use in medical treatments. Once processed and purified, what’s injected into the skin bears no resemblance to fish – and has virtually zero risk of irritation or rejection, unless you have a fish allergy.
What’s the treatment like?
A typical course involves two to three sessions spaced two to four weeks apart, depending on your skin goals. Each appointment takes about 30 minutes, with numbing cream optional (though most find the injections very tolerable). You may see some mild redness or swelling after, but downtime is minimal – think less ‘hiding at home’ and more ‘a little concealer will do.’
Results start to show within days, usually subtle improvements in plumpness and radiance and build over the following weeks. Peak glow usually hits around four to six weeks in.
Are they better than Profhilo?
Not necessarily better – just different. Profhilo is based on ultra-pure hyaluronic acid that spreads beneath the skin to hydrate and firm. It’s brilliant for hydration and subtle lifting. Polynucleotides, on the other hand, work by triggering your body’s own collagen and tissue repair. So, while Profhilo gives faster surface results, polynucleotides offer deeper structural improvements over time. Plenty of clinicians are now combining both for a 360 approach – Profhilo for immediate bounce, polynucleotides for long-term skin quality.
Who are they best for?
If you’re in your late 20s to 30s and looking for prejuvenation (preventative ageing treatments), polynucleotides are a brilliant choice – subtle, non-invasive, and regenerative. But they also work well for more mature skin in need of structural support or repair.
Are there any risks?
The treatment is very safe – but, as always, you should book with a medically qualified injector. Because polynucleotides are derived from fish, they’re not suitable if you have a fish or shellfish allergy. Otherwise, risks are minimal: you might get a small bruise or bump at the injection site, but serious side effects are rare.
Final verdict?
If you’re looking for a quiet revolution in your skincare routine – one that works with your body, not against it – polynucleotides are worth your radar. They don’t freeze, fill, or fake it. They rebuild, restore, and regenerate – slowly but surely.
Skin that glows not because something’s been added, but because something’s been healed. That’s the polynucleotide difference.
