As we head into the warmer months, sun protection becomes more crucial than ever – yet many of us still aren’t quite getting it quite right. Enter Dr Tara Francis, renowned dentist and advanced facial aesthetician, who’s here to demystify the world of sunscreen. From choosing between mineral and chemical SPF to layering it over your makeup, she breaks down how UV rays affect your skin, what ingredients to lean on (and avoid), and how to treat sun damage effectively. Whether you’re a skincare novice or seasoned SPF wearer, this is your essential summer skincare guide.



How does increased sun exposure impact the skin?



UV radiation is one of the primary environmental stressors affecting skin health, particularly during the summer months when exposure significantly increases. UVA rays penetrate deeply into the dermis, contributing to photoaging, collagen degradation and oxidative stress. UVB rays, though less penetrating, are more energetic and directly damage the DNA in epidermal cells, leading to erythema (sunburn) and increasing the risk of malignancies.

Chronic sun exposure without adequate protection accelerates the formation of wrinkles, pigmentary changes such as melasma and solar lentigines, and compromises the skin barrier. Moreover, cumulative UV damage is a major risk factor for both non-melanoma skin cancers (such as basal cell carcinoma and squamous cell carcinoma) and melanoma.



What are your top tips for protecting it?



Use a Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen (SPF 30+ minimum): Apply 15–30 minutes before sun exposure and reapply every two hours, or immediately after swimming or sweating. Be generous – most people under-apply. Look for formulations with zinc oxide, titanium dioxide or stabilized avobenzone for optimal UVA/UVB protection.

Adopt a Daily Routine: UV exposure happens even on cloudy days and through windows. Wearing sunscreen daily, year-round, is essential.

Wear Protective Clothing: UPF-rated garments, wide-brimmed hats and UV-filtering sunglasses provide great physical protection – especially for high-exposure areas like the face, neck and décolletage.

Seek Shade During Peak UV Hours: Typically between 11am and 3pm. Your phone’s weather app can indicate UV ratings to help plan outdoor time.

Support the Skin Barrier: Use moisturisers rich in ceramides, hyaluronic acid and antioxidants like vitamin C and niacinamide. Two favourites: Obagi Medical Rebalance Skin Barrier Recovery Cream and Medik8 Total Moisture Daily Facial Cream.


What skincare ingredients should we focus on during the summer months, and which ones should we avoid?



The summer months call for ingredients that offer protection, hydration, and repair – while some actives are best reduced or temporarily avoided to prevent sensitivity or irritation.

Recommended Ingredients:



Niacinamide is a summer skincare staple. It helps to balance oil production, reduce inflammation and strengthen the skin barrier.

Try: Obagi Medical Daily Hydro-Drops for a lightweight, hydrating boost.

Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that helps brighten the skin, support collagen production and boost the efficacy of your SPF.

Depending On Your Skin Type, Try:

SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF – ideal for pigment-prone skin.

SkinCeuticals Silymarin CF – great for acne-prone skin.

SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic – perfect for dry or mature skin.

SkinCeuticals Serum 10 – a gentle option for sensitive skin.

Hyaluronic Acid is brilliant for summer as it deeply hydrates without feeling heavy or clogging pores.

Try: Medik8 Hydr8 B5 Intense for a boost of moisture.

Zinc and Titanium Dioxide provide effective, broad-spectrum protection and are well tolerated by sensitive skin.

For Mineral SPF, Try:
CeraVe Hydrating Mineral Sunscreen and Obagi Sun Shield Mineral.

Aloe Vera and Panthenol are excellent for calming sun-stressed or irritated skin.

Try: La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5+.


Ingredients To Use With Caution Or Avoid In Summer:



Retinoids (including retinol and tretinoin) can increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun. If you use them, apply only at night and always follow with SPF during the day.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) such as glycolic acid exfoliate the skin, but also make it more vulnerable to UV damage. Use them sparingly or opt for gentler alternatives during summer.

Benzoyl Peroxide is often used to treat acne but can be drying and increase the risk of sun sensitivity.

Fragrance and Citrus Oils might smell lovely, but they can cause phototoxic reactions when exposed to sunlight – especially in high concentrations or on sensitive skin.

Clinical Tip: Focus on hydrating and antioxidant-rich products in the morning, and save actives like retinoids or exfoliating acids for your evening routine. A simple, sun-safe regimen can help your skin thrive all summer long.



How should people reapply sunscreen throughout the day, especially if they wear makeup?



Dermatologists recommend reapplying every two hours, or more frequently if swimming or sweating. Fortunately, modern formulations make it easier than ever to top up protection without undoing your entire look.


Smart Ways to Reapply SPF Over Makeup:



SPF Sprays or Mists: Look for a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ facial mist specifically designed for over-makeup use. Hold at arm’s length and spritz evenly. These won’t replace your morning sunscreen but are great for touch-ups on the go.

Sunscreen Powders: Mineral SPF powders (usually zinc oxide or titanium dioxide-based) offer a mattifying finish and work well for oily or combination skin. My product recommendation is Colorscience Sunforgettable Total Protection Brush On Shield SPF 50.

Cushion or Compact SPF: These portable SPF-infused cushions allow for precise reapplication using a sponge, making them ideal for dabbing onto high-exposure areas like the nose, forehead, and cheeks.

Tinted SPF Products: If you’re not wearing heavy makeup, a tinted SPF can double as both protection and light coverage. Reapply as you would a compact foundation for both top-ups and touch-ups. There is also evidence to show that tinted SPFs give more sun protection than non-tinted. My recommendations: Obagi Medical Sun Shield Tint (comes in warm and cool tone), or Ultra Violette Tinted Daydream Screen (comes in a variety of shades)

Clinical Tip: Even with makeup-friendly SPF products, a strong base layer in the morning—applied generously and evenly—is your best defence. Think of reapplication as a top-up, not a replacement.


What’s the difference between chemical and mineral sunscreens, and which is better for summer?





Chemical and mineral sunscreens both protect your skin from UV damage, but they work in different ways.

Chemical sunscreens absorb UV rays and convert them into heat. They typically include ingredients like avobenzone, octinoxate, oxybenzone and homosalate. These formulas are usually lightweight with an invisible finish that blends seamlessly under makeup, making them ideal for daily use and for those with darker skin tones. However, they generally take 15–30 minutes to become effective after application and some ingredients may degrade with sun exposure. There are also environmental concerns around their impact on marine life, particularly coral reefs.

Mineral sunscreens, on the other hand, reflect UV rays away from the skin using active ingredients like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. They begin protecting your skin immediately upon application, and are highly photostable. These sunscreens tend to have a thicker texture and may leave a slight white cast, although newer formulations have improved significantly in this area. Mineral SPFs are ideal for sensitive skin, children, and anyone who has undergone skin treatments. They’re also generally reef-safe and considered more environmentally friendly.

So which is better? For everyday urban wear, a chemical sunscreen with added antioxidants offers lightweight, invisible protection – especially useful if you wear makeup. But for high-exposure days at the beach, on a hike, or if your skin is sensitive or compromised, a mineral sunscreen is the gold standard.

Bottom line: The best sunscreen is the one you’ll actually use – consistently, generously, and with diligent reapplication throughout the day.


Are there any in-clinic treatments that can help repair sun damage?





There are plenty of in-clinic treatments that can help repair sun damage, and the right choice will be dependent on a consultation and skin analysis. Examples of some treatments that could be beneficial are:

Chemical Peels: Chemical solutions exfoliate the skin, removing damaged outer layers and improving pigmentation and texture. Stronger peels target deeper sun damage.

Laser Treatments: Lasers like Fractional CO2 and IPL target pigmentation and stimulate collagen production to improve skin texture, tone, and reduce sunspots.

Microneedling: Tiny needles create micro-injuries in the skin to stimulate collagen production and reduce hyperpigmentation and sunspots.

Cryotherapy: Liquid nitrogen is used to freeze and remove sunspots and other localized pigmentation caused by sun exposure.

PRP Therapy: Platelet-rich plasma, derived from your own blood, is injected into the skin to promote healing, collagen production, and rejuvenation.

Skin Tightening Treatments: Non-invasive treatments like Ultherapy use ultrasound or radiofrequency to tighten skin, improving elasticity and reducing sagging from sun damage.


How can we soothe sunburned skin quickly and effectively?



Cool Down with a Cold Compress – Apply a cold compress or damp, cool towel to the sunburned area for 15-20 minutes at a time to reduce heat and calm irritation. Avoid using ice directly on the skin to prevent further damage.

Use Aloe Vera Gel – Aloe vera has natural anti-inflammatory properties that help soothe sunburn and reduce redness. Apply pure aloe vera gel directly to the affected areas to cool and hydrate the skin. Make sure to choose a gel without alcohol, which can further dry out the skin.

Take a Cool Bath (Avoid Hot Water) – Soak in a cool bath with colloidal oatmeal or baking soda to relieve itching and discomfort. Avoid hot water, as it can exacerbate irritation. Gently pat the skin dry after the bath, leaving some moisture on the skin to lock in hydration.

Apply Hydrating Moisturisers – Use a fragrance-free, hydrating moisturiser with ingredients like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or ceramides to help restore moisture and repair the skin’s barrier. Look for products specifically designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

Avoid Scratching or Peeling – Resist the urge to scratch or peel sunburned skin, as this can lead to further irritation or scarring. Let the skin heal naturally to minimise the risk of infection and scarring.
Use Over-the-Counter Hydrocortisone Cream – For more severe irritation, a 1% hydrocortisone cream can help reduce inflammation and redness. However, it should be used sparingly and only for short periods and isn’t always recommended on the face

Drink Plenty of Water – Sunburn draws moisture from your skin, leading to dehydration. Drink plenty of water to help rehydrate your body and support skin healing from the inside out.
Avoid Further Sun Exposure – Stay out of the sun while your skin heals. If you need to go outside, wear protective clothing and apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher) to avoid worsening the sunburn.

Use an After-Sun Lotion with Vitamin E – After-sun lotions that contain Vitamin E can help support skin healing and reduce peeling. Look for a formula that also contains soothing ingredients like aloe vera or chamomile. If using on the face, use one suitable for the face.