That it is in the blood is inarguable. With his like-minded brothers Oliver, the chef, and Gregory, the farmer, The Gladwin Brothers launched The Shed in Notting Hill in 2012 to rave reviews. The formula was simple – and, like with all simple things, deceptively hard to pull off unless in the most accomplished of hands.
The idea was to deliver British tapas using ultra fresh produce – chiefly from their Sussex farm – as well as sustainably sourced and foraged-for ingredients from the British countryside and coast. The inspiration? They believe it ‘must come from hedgerow, seashore and meadow while using hyper-seasonal ingredients.’ And as for the wine? That comes from Nutbourne, the vineyard his parents run in West Sussex. This is a fully functional, smooth-running and symbiotic family affair.
The concept has panned out spectacularly. Now, under the umbrella group Local & Wild, the brothers have six restaurants. In addition to The Shed, there is also Rabbit in Chelsea; Nutbourne in Battersea; Sussex in Soho; The Fat Badger in Richmond; and most recently, The Black Sheep in Wimbledon Village.
Here he tells us why there’s no place finer in the world than Nutbourne on a summer’s evening at dusk – and what he’d have been if he hadn’t become a restaurateur (clue: the name’s Gladwin. Richard Gladwin).
Favourite place in all the world?
On Nutbourne Vineyards, my family’s West Sussex vineyard. There’s a spot at the bottom of the property which, at dusk on a summer’s day, is fantastic. The bats swoop overhead, the cacophony birds calling, sneaky foxes scampering through the brush, or a lucky pheasant that survived the season saunters into view. It’s full of character and tranquillity all at once and if you’re feeling fresh you can jump into the cold-water lake!
Dream holiday?
Having the whole family with me for a trip down to New Zealand, hiring a big campervan to ‘Tiki tour’, as they say.
Most coveted item right now?
My tree ferns, which I planted into our urban garden over Christmas and I frost protected and nurtured in the hopes of a tropical green garden over the summer.
Proudest professional moment to date?
The opening of Sussex Bar & Restaurant in Soho has been a long-term ambition – to have a West End flagship and bring the farm right into the very centre of London.
Your dream future project?
My pension pot is a crab shack on the coast anywhere in the world where we can serve a really simple offering around local shellfish. I’ll finally be cooking over coals with a cold beer in hand and the sun on my back.
Who has been your most inspiring mentor, professionally or personally?
My father – through his work in hospitality, which I’ve been influenced by my entire life, he inspired our dream of opening a restaurant group. He’s been a great support and mentor in the journey to realising that dream.
Where would you live if you could live anywhere?
I’m very happy where I am at the moment in my house in Barnes with my wife Lizzie and two little girls. But there is an area called Davenport in the city of Auckland where you can live beachside at the edge of the city with a sailing boat at the bottom of your garden.
What book is on your nightstand/ kindle right now?
John Le Carré’s Silverview. I knew I wanted to be a restaurateur from the age of 12 but if I weren’t, I’d be a secret agent and thus I read spy novels constantly.
Best film you’ve seen recently?
I quite enjoyed Spencer. Having never really followed the story of Diana, I’ve been thinking about it since and what it was really like?
Best binge-watched TV show?
The White Lotus had me glued from the moment it started. Having read Shelagh Ryan’s interview, I then watched The White Lotus over a weekend with my wife Lizzie.
Top podcast of the moment?
Scientifically by Radio 4. It’s fascinating! A recent episode was about the dissection of a sunfish and all that they found in the process. The descriptions and way it’s laid out is really interesting and you can sense the love and respect toward the animals.
Your hero?
Esther Lim, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Rodger Federer. Just so smooth at the game and he has been so consistent for so many years. I only now buy the trainers that he has invested in! What an icon.
Image: Esther Lim, CC BY-SA 2.0
If you were an animal, what would you be?
A Pied Kingfisher. Sitting by the water’s edge. Getting business done, and everybody enjoys them.
What did you want to be when you grew up?
A secret agent of course – but specifically James Bond-esque.
Worst job you’ve ever done?
A day in the restaurant kitchen – I’ll leave this to Oliver.
Favourite dish to cook?
Spaghetti Bolognese. A great comfort dish and sometimes, if I’m home early enough, I will spend hours cooking it. Tasting, seasoning and really making it an event. After enjoying it for dinner you can pack a couple of portions away for when you visit a rented cottage and have it on your first night away – the gift that keeps on giving!
Favourite café/ restaurant?
The Fat Badger, our latest restaurant in Richmond – on the weekends my family and I would walk down to Richmond and didn’t have a place to eat after a big walk and now we’ve got one!
What tune always makes you want to dance?
Feel it Still – Portugal the Man.
