At the vertiginous town’s centre, clinging to the lemon grove terraced cliffs of the Amalfi Coast sits Le Sirenuse. A former 18th-century summer residence of the aristocratic Sersale family, the hotel’s vantage point – framing the glittering Tyrrhenian Sea, mosaic’d dome of the duomo and the pastel-hued tumble of Positano’s buildings – is postcard-perfect.
Named after a group of islands on the horizon, rumoured to be the location where sirens from Greek mythology lured sailors to their doom, the hotel certainly evokes the same irresistible attraction. Yet for all its cinematic beauty, Le Sirenuse is more than a pretty face: it’s a beacon of timeless Italian glamour, attracting discerning travellers who value heritage, discretion, and sublime service in equal measure.
With Michelin-starred dining, panoramic views, and impeccable family-run service, this Amalfi Coast icon delivers la dolce vita in its most elegant form. Here's why it’s been firmly at the top of Lydia Mansi’s hotel A List for 15 years, and never fails to disappoint in all its quiet luxury glamour.
What
Since opening its doors as a hotel in 1951, Le Sirenuse has remained under the stewardship of the Sersale family, preserving the intimacy of a private home with the polish of a world-class hotel. The 63 rooms and suites - many with private terraces - exude traditional charm with vaulted ceilings, hand-painted tiles, and antique furnishings, while offering modern comforts like flat-screen TVs, Bose sound systems, and marble bathrooms stocked with Eau d’Italie products (the hotel’s own fragrance line, created by Marina Sersale herself). The look is refreshingly unflashy - Italian luxury at its most elegant and effortless.
Eat
Dining here is nothing short of magical. The Michelin-starred La Sponda, lit nightly by 400 candles, feels suspended between sea and sky, with vines and bougainvillea climbing the walls and windows framing the coastline like oil paintings. The menu leans into Mediterranean tradition with dishes such as lemon-scented sea bass, zucchini flower risotto, and a memorable chestnut ravioli with white truffle in autumn. Save room for the lemon soufflé - a house favourite. Mornings begin on the sunny terrace with rich espresso, creamy buffalo milk yogurt, fresh granola, and local pastries served on colourful Vietri ceramics.
If a lighter option beckons, Aldo’s Cocktail Bar & Seafood Grill delivers elegant small plates and fresh seafood with a side of spectacular sunsets, while the Champagne & Oyster Bar comes alive on warm evenings with chic aperitivo and sweeping views.
Do
While the lure of the mosaic infinity pool and spa is strong, Le Sirenuse encourages guests to delve deeper into the rhythms of life on the Amalfi Coast. Pilates classes, art history lectures, and wine tastings punctuate the weekly programme, while more immersive options include market tours with the hotel chef and guided walks into the Lattari Mountains. Perhaps most unforgettable is a Champagne cruise on the hotel’s own vintage Riva speedboat - a swoon-worthy way to see the coast from the water.
The onsite Spa by Tata Harper offers botanically based treatments in a tranquil space that feels miles away from Positano’s bustling beach clubs. Don’t miss the eucalyptus-scented sauna and candlelit saltwater pool.
The Crowd
Le Sirenuse draws a devoted, international clientele: honeymooners, creatives, and well-heeled return guests who appreciate the family-run feel and attention to detail. It’s a favourite of fashion insiders and those who prefer intimacy over scene - elegance here is quiet, not showy.
Insider Tips
Ask for a sea-view room with a balcony - you’ll want to linger over sunset aperitivi with the town twinkling below. Book La Sponda in advance (it’s open to non-guests and often fully reserved). And if you’re visiting in peak summer, consider a shoulder-season stay in late spring or early autumn for fewer crowds and softer light.
Don’t skip the in-house boutique, Emporio Sirenuse - curated by Carla Sersale, it’s a treasure trove of artisanal fashion and homeware exclusive to the hotel.
The Verdict
Le Sirenuse remains a shining example of Italian hospitality at its finest - stylish yet soulful, luxurious yet laid-back. In an age of homogenised luxury, it offers something increasingly rare: a sense of place, personality, and passion. It’s not just a hotel, it’s an experience – one that lingers long after you’ve left those lemon trees behind…
Book here.
