Virginia Woolf was famously not a fan. She wrote to her husband, ‘If it is a choice between Richmond and death, I choose death.’ Many more, however, would beg to differ, including the likes of David Attenborough, Mick Jagger and Richard Ashcroft, who have all paid handsomely to claim their slice of the country within the city. From Richmond Green to Richmond Park; Kew Garden to the riverside and Petersham nurseries, it offers a beguiling mix of town and country; it packs in all the amenities and sophistication one expects in the capital, while no one would bat an eye at the sight of muddy wellies, Barbours and a pack of chocolate Labradors in tow. These are the place to know.

EAT



The Fat Badger



The Gladwin Brothers are the Sussex-born trio whose sustainably sourced (from their own farm, chiefly) British tapas is slowly but surely taking over the city. They already have The Shed in Notting Hill, Rabbit in Chelsea, Sussex in Soho and Nutbourne in Battersea. Now added to that rapidly expanding portfolio is The Fat Badger on Hill Rise, Richmond, which serves up equally delicious morsels. We highly recommend the Marmite eclairs and the South Downs venison. The Gladwin brothers prove one again that they very much know their hospitality onions – not to mention their British charcuterie. Book it.


Scott’s Richmond



If Scott’s Richmond could be summed up in a sound, it would be that of the soft hiss of a champagne bottle being expertly uncorked. Its legendary Mayfair sister restaurant is synonymous with old-world decadence and glamour. Its brand new riverside outpost is no different – other than the fact that it has the whiff of holiday about it thanks to the waterfront setting. There is a crustacean bar. There are smart waist-coated staff. There are silver platters aplenty. And there is oodles of elegance. Book it.


Petersham Nurseries



The most eulogised nursery in the land, Petersham is never not exquisite, no matter the season. We love its eclectic collection of interiors buys, all presented to perfection within its greenhouses – almost as much, that is, as we like rewarding ourselves with a hefty slice of reliably delicious cake at the teahouse. But for those in mood for a splurge, do book in to its restaurant. The place at which Skye Gyngell made her name, the reins now reside with Tuscan head chef, Ambra Papa, who was first steeped in culinary know-how via her parents’ two restaurants and latterly under the tutelage of Mark Hix. Book it.


STAY



The Bingham



The Bingham Hotel, a five-minute meander across a field from Petersham Nurseries, and teetering gloriously on the river’s edge, is the boutique hotel to stay in in Richmond. Its beautiful garden, which backs onto the towpath, it is the ideal setting for garden parties of dreams in the summer months. For the rest of the year, the interior is magical too; consisting of two yoked-together Georgian townhouses, its proportions are perfection and its history fascinating. While occupied by Katherine Bradley and Edith Cooper between 1899 and 1914, it became a draw for literary types, including WB Yeats. Its bones remain elegant as ever, and have only been augmented by designer Nicola Harding, who strikes precisely the right note between garden room, country house and boutique chic. Book it.


The Petersham Hotel

Petersham

The dreamily positioned The Petersham overlooks both field and river – all while being accessible by tube. Traditional and comfortable interiors and a sublime situation make it a blissful place to escape the city for a night or two; ideal for Londoners who want a break without the hassle of travel. Book it.


Richmond Harbour Hotel



Set on a crescent set back from Richmond Hill, this may be a chain hotel, but still it oozes character. Plus, where else could you bestraddle both city and country, as well as take lodgings in a Georgian house that so happens to have a huge swimming pool, a spa garden with Scandinavian hot tubs and a sauna and steam room? Do venture out for a glass of something chilled (or mulled on colder nights) on one of the benches atop Richmond Hill for a leisurely way to take in the view beloved by Turner. Book it.


DO



Kew Gardens

KEW GARDENS

Image: RBG Kew
Just down the road from Richmond itself lies the world-famous Kew Gardens. It is not only a place of unutterable beauty; it is also a world-leading and internationally important centre of botanical education. Founded in 1759, it houses the ‘largest and most diverse botanical and mycological collections in the world.’ Ever-evolving from both a botanical and a design perspective, we love the 2008 addition of a canopy walkway, enabling visitors to traverse the site at tree level, and the John Pawson designed minimalist Sackler Crossing Bridge. Book tickets.


Richmond Park




Richmond Park is not only London’s largest Royal Park; it is also the largest urban park in Europe, covering some 2,500 acres. No matter how glorious the weather, the only place it ever feels packed out with visitors is in its car parks; otherwise, unlike other London parks, it is spacious enough to accommodate thousands of walkers and picnickers without ever feeling like a jostle for space. A European Special Area of Conservation and a site of international importance for wildlife conservation (many will be familiar for example, with the deer that roam the grounds), it also has a rich history: Henry VIII, who had a nearby residence, came here to hunt regularly. We especially love the Isabella Plantation, a 40 acre woodland and garden within a Victorian woodland plantation, planted in the 1830s, all managed on organic principles and planted to provide homes and food for birds, bats and insects. Find more information here.


Rowing on Thames



In the summer months, there is nothing more delightful than messing around in boats on the Thames. You can hire a rowing skiffs along the riverside by the hour and there are options for those that carry one, two, four, six or eight people. The perfect activity before a restorative lunch in the garden at The Bingham. Find more information here.


Ham House

Ham House

Image: © National Trust Images/Hugh Mothersole
Standing on the banks of the river Thames, this 17th-century Stuart house was the creation of Duchess of Lauderdale and her husband, the Duke, who transformed it into one of the grandest houses in the land. Do visit the walled kitchen garden, one of the most productive in the capital. Find more information here.


Marble Hill House




Just across the river in Twickenham sits Marble Hill House, a neo-Palladian villa, built between 1724 and 1729. The former home of Henrietta Howard, Countess of Suffolk – who also happened to be mistress of King George II – it was designed by architect Roger Morris and ‘architect earl’ Henry Herbert. Based on the Palladian design for Villa Cornaro, it became the standard model for the plantation houses in the American colonies. But prior to that dubious honour, during Henrietta’s tenure, it played host to the luminary likes of Alexander Pope and Jonathan Swift. Find more information here.

By Nancy Alsop
December 2022