What
In the film adaptation of The Hours, Virginia Woolf as played by Nicole Kidman declares that ‘If it is a choice between Richmond and death, I choose death.’ Undeniably pithy though the declaration may be, Woolf not only never uttered those fictionalised words, but in fact spent a productive decade in this most verdant of London suburbs. And one glance down the Thames from Richmond Hill, as immortalised by Turner from this very viewpoint, and it’s hard to see how anybody wouldn’t be moved to create great works of art. The Richmond Hill Hotel then, scoops points aplenty simply by dint of its location. It is unrivalled: the views sweeping down to Petersham and Ham House are amongst the most glorious we know, while the proximity to Richmond Park – replete with roaming deer – makes it ideal for post-prandial wanders.That it also happens to be housed within a grand, Georgian townhouse comes as a considerable added bonus.
The Welcome
There are two breeds of good welcome when it comes to a hotel check in: the efficient and the warm. Richmond Hill Hotel nails both: ebullient receptionist Roseanne greets us like old friends, congratulates our daughter Rose on having the good taste to (almost) share her name and, since it is Mothers’ Day, plucks a tulip from a beautiful arrangement for me to keep. The aesthetic is refined, but the sensibility wholly relaxed – which is precisely the correct way round.
The Rooms
As well as the usual tiered categories found in hotels the world over, Richmond Hill also offers two discrete collections, divided across its 144 rooms: The Georgian and The Hill. The former rooms and suites are classic, with freshly painted wood panelling, sash windows and varied configurations thanks to the building’s idiosyncrasies, populated with charming touches such as old-fashioned telephones and roll top baths, as well as classic architectural details of the period. The latter offer a more contemporary take on luxury, with mid-century modern touches, hand-stitched mattresses from Heal’s and picture windows that frame the verdant vistas from every which way you look. Bathrooms throughout are exemplary, with freestanding baths and huge showers that invite you to luxuriate with a glass of champagne – the first, that is, before you head back downstairs to the exceptional bar and restaurant.
Food & Drink
Some hotel restaurants remain just that: a convenient spot to eat before tottering upstairs to bed. Others are destinations that draw crowds from the local area and beyond – and 144, so named for both the number of rooms and the address on the hill – fall firmly into the latter camp. Do make time for a cocktail in the bar, which is a cosy and welcoming affair: low lighting, roaring fires, and much in the way of velvet armchairs and sofas to sink into evoke a classic club feel – and that’s before one even glances at the menu. We plump for a pair of classics: a Margarita and an Old Fashioned – the perfect litmus tests, which set the tone beautifully for what unfolds as a glorious feast ahead.
The service is impeccable – friendly, warm, and wholly without fuss – and the food equally so. We eschew starters in favour of sharing the artisan rolls, complete with whipped and flavoured butter, but the mains that my husband and I try of 144’s take on chicken tikka masala are truly scrumptious, delicately flavoured and spiced but without that curry house overpower. Our daughter, meanwhile, feasts on vegetable dippers and fish goujons with chips, which are every bit as good as everything we try. It would be rude for us (the grown ups, that is, not the child portion of the table) not to try the wine, and the Portuguese white from Alentejo is a crisp, refreshing delight. We have just enough room to try a knickerbocker glory to share to end the menu, and it more than lives up to its name, being in equal parts glorious and, well, knickerbocker-ish, with just enough acidity from the fruit to balance out the inevitable sweetness, and our daughter’s Oreo & brownie sundae is just as good – if, inevitably, rather heavier on the chocolate delight.
Morning brings a return to 144, but there is a rather different vibe at breakfast. It’s a buffet rather than a la carte, but of a rather higher calibre than the limp offerings you so often get in similar establishments. If you want to go down the full English route, there’s the usual compliment of bacon, sausages, eggs and the like, but the cold table is amply stocked with fruit, yogurt, fish and meat if you wanted something more continental. Special mention must go to the particularly delicious pastries – the pain au raisin, in particular, is award-worthy – and the green juice that comes on demand and has especially health-giving properties, meaning that if you indulged in the bar after dinner the night before (not guilty!) it’ll be a marvellous pick-me-up.
Don’t Miss
The outdoor terrace – whatever the season. In the summer, it makes for the most elegant spot to take a morning coffee and a croissant. In the winter, it is transformed into a ‘Winter Wonderlounge’ – an easy extension of the hotel’s entrance and a delight upon which to make merry, flanked by greenery on all sides.
The Verdict
The views alone would justify a stay, but it’s the combination of exceptionally warm service, thoughtfully differentiated rooms and a restaurant with real local pull that ensures it’s far more than just a pretty postcode. It feels both established and easy, and a stay here restores both senses and soul, offering an escape from the city without even having to leave it.
The Price
Rooms from around £180 per night for entry-level Hill rooms, rising to £350+ for suites, depending on season and availability.
FAQs: Richmond Hill Hotel
Is Richmond Hill Hotel good for a London staycation?
Very much so. It offers the rare feeling of leaving London without the inconvenience of actually doing so – all greenery, views and calm, yet still within easy reach of the city.
Which rooms should I book at Richmond Hill Hotel?
For period charm, opt for The Georgian rooms with their panelling and roll-top baths; for something sleeker, The Hill rooms bring a more contemporary, design-led feel with expansive views.
What makes the location special?
Few London vantage points rival Richmond Hill. The sweeping views over the Thames towards Petersham and Ham House, coupled with immediate access to Richmond Park, make it uniquely picturesque.
Is the restaurant worth visiting if you’re not staying overnight?
Yes – 144 has enough local pull to stand on its own. It’s the sort of place people come to deliberately, not just by default.
When is the best time to visit?
Spring and early summer are hard to beat, when the park is at its most verdant and the terrace comes into its own – though the winter setup, with its festive ‘Wonderlounge’, has its own appeal.
