The Idea
A few years ago, Nick Jones, founder of the Soho House group, was travelling along an anonymous stretch of the A420 between Oxford and Swindon when he was struck by a brainwave. People were bored with Little Chefs, he thought; why not instead build an American-style diner, with food and drink of Soho House standards but open to everyone and at prices that mean that anyone can visit? This being Nick Jones, all these things came to pass, and two more have followed – outside Bristol and in the centre of Manchester – but it’s still the original that has the real cachet.
The Vibe
The atmosphere inside is best described as ‘upmarket retro diner’, with all the trimmings you’d expect, from ketchup served in giant tomato-shaped bottles to classic leather booths. But there’s a level of style here that goes well beyond the usual diner aesthetic, with chrome, timber cladding and Crittall glass all adding to the appeal. The thoughtful touches extend even to the Cowshed products in the loos. Clearly, a great deal of consideration has gone into this place, and it’s a godsend for families looking for somewhere affordable yet stylish to eat in an area that is otherwise distinctly barren when it comes to dining out.
The Food
Expect diner classics served with panache at wallet-friendly prices (nothing is above £20 and most of it is a lot less.) Starters of chicken tenders and fried pickles – ‘frickles’ – are moreish in the best way, thanks in large part to the delicious dips they come with, and a flat-iron steak and chips is good value and tasty, especially if you order a side of Caesar salad with it. It’s a great place for kids, too; there’s a £7.50 menu that includes a main, two sides and a drink. My 10-year-old daughter Rose opted for a hot dog with fries and mac ‘n’ cheese, which she pronounced excellent, and puddings here are a particular highlight; the banana split comes with chunks of brioche, and a soft serve allows you to choose your own toppings and sauce, to delightful effect.
The Drinks
Many of the patrons here will, of course, be driving, so there’s an unusually large range of soft drinks and mocktails on offer, as well as plenty of milkshakes for the sweet-toothed. Cocktails are, however, top notch, especially a punchy Old Fashioned and a delicious Espresso Martini – made to the same recipe as the rather more expensive Soho House variety – and there’s a small but well chosen wine list by the glass, including a decent South African Sauvignon and an Argento Malbec. Nodding to local suppliers, there’s also a Hawkstone IPA from local resident Jeremy Clarkson’s brewery, too.
The Verdict
Family-friendly dining with a fun atmosphere, solicitous staff and dishes that know exactly what they’re trying to do and do it well, mixed with a few top-notch cocktails and some stylish and luxurious touches make this your ideal roadside port of call.
By Alexander Larman
Mollie’s Diner
Where is Mollie's Diner in Oxfordshire?
The original Mollie's Diner is on the A420 at Buckland, between Oxford and Swindon, making it a handy stop for anyone travelling between the two.
Is Mollie's Diner good for families?
Absolutely. With its relaxed atmosphere, leather booths and crowd-pleasing menu of American classics, Mollie's is particularly well suited to families. There's also a dedicated children's menu, priced at £7.50 at the time of our visit, which includes a main, two sides and a drink.
What kind of food does Mollie's Diner serve?
Expect American diner favourites, including burgers, hot dogs, chicken tenders, steaks, fries and indulgent puddings. There's also a good selection of milkshakes, cocktails and alcohol-free drinks.
Is Mollie's Diner expensive?
Not particularly. Despite its Soho House connections and stylish interiors, Mollie's is designed to be accessible, with most main dishes comfortably under £20 at the time of our review.
Are there other Mollie's Diners in the UK?
Yes. As well as the original Oxfordshire location, Mollie's has expanded to Bristol and Manchester, bringing its retro-inspired interiors and American diner menu to other parts of the country.
