Where
In the hills overlooking the Ksob river, the North African guest ksar (palace) is a fifteen-minute drive from the charming seaside, seagull encircled city of Essaouira, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Famed for its walled medina and miles of sandy beaches, it recently doubled as the Games of Thrones fictional city of Astapor.
Stay
There’s little doubt about it: here, you really do feel like you could be in paradise. There are nineteen individually designed bedrooms, many enclosed by shady courtyards that sing with chattering birds. Six terracotta-coloured domed suites are scattered around extensive gardens, while a further six private villas are set in their own grounds, each with a heated pool and a chef. Nods to its Berber heritage are the refrain throughout the design: rustic carved wooden doors, traditional tile work, local textiles and argan-oil bath products all ooze a warm and earthy touch.
Eat
Breakfasts might be warm handmade batbout flatbreads, msem and bagadir pancakes and figs, while lunches and suppers bring grilled fish, mezze platters and salads bursting with herbs. Of the three dining areas, our favourite is the sun-dappled terrace overlooking the gardens full of tumbling bougainvillea. Inside, the impossibly romantic La Table des Douars is devoted entirely to candlelit dinners for two.
Padel
Last year marked the opening of Le Club des Douars, Essaouira’s first-ever private sports club, which is just a two-minute stroll from the hotel through its lush vegetable gardens. Here, four state-of-the-art padel courts nestle into the terracotta hillside which offers a breathtaking setting for a game. Guests can borrow kit, join relaxed tournaments and gather for sociable courtside events. Many linger over mint tea or cocktails at the club’s sophisticated bar. Soon, yoga, Pilates and further fitness activities will be introduced, adding to the hotel’s truly excellent existing wellness programme.
Do
Few guests feel the itch to leave. With padel courts, swimming pools, yoga, Pilates sessions, visiting workshops and botanical gardens, the hotel offers plenty to fill slow, sun-soaked days. The two jade green swimming pools are heated; one a serene adults-only infinity pool, the other, tucked beneath the shade of olive trees, is for families. Guests wander the gardens keeping eyes peeled for resident tortoises, chameleons and frogs. If solitude beckons, they’ll take a straw hat and slink off to a sun lounger in one of the garden’s many quiet corners. At the candle-lit, eucalyptus-scented spa, the standout treatment is the hammam ritual. For adventures further afield, the concierge team arranges guided visits to Essaouira’s medina or outings to nearby beaches for horse and camel rides, quad biking or surf lessons.
The Crowd
A sophisticated yet laidback mix of mostly French and British couples and families.
Insider Tips
Check out Ryanair which runs twice weekly, year-round flights direct from London to Essaouira. Otherwise, the hotel is a 2.5-hour trip from Marrakech.
If you can, do book a luxury suite with its own terrace, sunken bath and fireplace. It’s worth it. Padel is wildly popular here, so be sure to reserve your court times early, especially in peak weeks. Don’t miss the daily 4pm cake and mint tea ritual or the legendary Sunday barbecue. Private taxis, meanhwhile, can add up – opt for the hotel shuttle if heading into Essaouira. For lunch in town, make a beeline for Ocean Vagabond, the coolest beachfront hangout.
The Verdict
Already a winter-sun favourite, this hotel just got even better thanks to its new padel courts. Think sunshine on tap, pool-and-spa days, a dash of culture and seriously good food. Happy times.
B&B priced from around £160 per room, per night or £630 per villa, per night. Discover more here.
