The Vibe
There are days when Cornwall can pull off a pretty convincing impression of the Caribbean, and so it is that, slap-bang in the middle of high summer, we happen to arrive at MOR on one of them. Beyond the restaurant's vast glass windows, the Atlantic is an almost implausible shade of blue against the white sands of Carbis Bay below and, despite having come direct from a whole day on the beach just down the coast, it is cinematically breathtaking.
The aptly named MOR – Cornish for 'sea' – is the brand-new restaurant from two Michelin-starred chef Tom Sellers, sitting strikingly above the beach at the Carbis Bay Resort. And the aptness of the name extends beyond its spectacular setting; the sea infuses almost everything about the place, whether in the day's catch displayed beside the open kitchen or a menu that makes the most of Cornwall's bountiful natural larder.
The Room
Minimal yet warm, the interiors – courtesy of Shayne Brady – are arrestingly beautiful. Natural materials dominate, our favourite touch being a frankly monumental stone fireplace that complements an equally monumental stone hand basin that greets you upon arrival, complete with deliciously scented organic handwash. Perhaps it's a practical concession to those coming straight from the beach; perhaps Sellers simply appreciates the civilising effect of beginning lunch with clean hands. Whichever it is, we hope it catches on.
On a blazing summer's day, MOR proves to be exactly what we’re hankering after: all breezy, barefoot Hamptons-riffing casual refinement. But the stone, timber and huge fireplace mean you can equally imagine it in November, the Atlantic raging outside while the restaurant cocoons you within. If summer MOR is all linen shirts and flipflops, its winter incarnation promises to be the culinary equivalent of pulling on a cashmere jumper.
The Welcome
For somewhere operating at this level, the whole operation is wholly and refreshingly unstuffy. The welcome from the assured maître d' is warm, while children are actively included in the fun as opposed to merely tolerated. Our ten-year-old is immediately won over by being invited to select her own chopstick holder from a collection of tiny creatures. (A kitten; points duly scored.) It is just one instance of the understated thread of theatre that runs throughout here, as also evidenced in the freshly caught 60kg Cornish bluefin tuna that sits outside the open kitchen – an extraordinary creature that renders the restaurant's commitment to provenance tangible. You don't have to ask where your lunch came from. In some cases, you can practically introduce yourself to it.
The Food
The first thing we eat is almost absurdly refreshing: a tiny, icy melon and tomato soup, somewhere between a chilled soup and granita, that instantly recalibrates the palate for what follows. The opening section of the menu is divided into Yeyn (cold) and Poeth (hot), designed for ordering several dishes between you. And this is where things become seriously exciting.
A crisp Porthilly rock oyster arrives with hot sauce and proves a lesson in converting the oyster-averse (CF: the 10-year-old): crunchy, saline, spicy and perfect. Then comes what is, with some stiff competition, our dish of the day – Bang Bang Squid Salad with sesame, chilli and peanut. It is everything you want summer food to be: fragrant and feather-light, the heat and richness never overwhelming the sweetness of the squid.
The Cornish bluefin tuna – why hello again, enormous fish by the kitchen – comes with grilled peaches, PX vinegar and jalapeño. If the combination sounds busy, it tastes beautifully coherent: rich tuna against sweet fruit, acidity and a flicker of heat. Then, as a small concession to my more carnivorous husband, we also order a Cornwall Project lamb skewer with sheep's yoghurt and sumac. I eat meat rarely, but this could tempt even the most occasional carnivore: tender lamb offset by cool, creamy yoghurt and the citrusy tang of sumac.
The larger dishes focus on fish and meat cooked with minimal interference, allowing exceptional ingredients to do most of the talking. We share a whole ikejime sea bass, accompanied simply by potatoes and garden salad. It is, in some ways, the least complicated thing we eat – and perhaps the most impressive. The flesh slips effortlessly from the bone, its seasoning immaculate. There is nowhere for a kitchen to hide with food like this. It is, simply, a locally caught fish cooked beautifully and my, how we wish we could eat like this every day.
For The Little Ones
The children's menu deserves particular praise. Our daughter begins with crudités and hummus, although this undersells a beautifully presented arrangement of pristine garden vegetables with exceptionally silky hummus. Golden fish goujons and crisp potatoes follow: essentially fish and chips but given the MOR treatment, making this a sophisticated take but recognisable enough to delight a young palette. The masterstroke, however, is the thrilling moment she is whisked into the kitchen to pull her own soft serve and cover it with toppings of her choosing. The expression on her face suggests that all future restaurant experiences may now be judged against this moment. (Not to be outdone, I order a toasted rice soft serve with wasabi and puffed rice: light and delicate but with a gorgeous nutty toastiness that makes it far more interesting than conventional ice cream: it’s perfect.)
The Drink
We begin as all good seaside lunches should: with cocktails. MOR's signatures take inspiration from art and are as imaginative as the food. My Whistler's Wings combines cardamom-infused reposado tequila with Ancho Reyes, amaro, Aperol, lime, celery and fig leaf – an unlikely roll call that somehow comes together as fresh, aromatic and beautifully sophistated.
My husband's Mondrian heads into darker territory: Del Maguey mezcal, Dalwhinnie 15-year-old whisky, Laphroaig, Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, Fernet-Branca, Campari and chocolate. Smoky and complex, it’s not messing about. From there we are in the hands of our effervescent sommelier, Tara, who guides us through the extensive wine list and shepherds us towards a 2023 Grand Ardèche Chardonnay from Louis Latour in Burgundy. Rich enough to stand up to the stronger flavours, it manages to also strike the right note of freshness for the fish.
The Verdict
MOR makes serious cooking feel fun. There is extraordinary produce, radical simplicity when it’s called for and a polish that belies the fact that the restaurant has been here for a mere matter of weeks. But then there are also kitten chopstick rests, children making their own ice cream, cocktails inspired by paintings and a dining room in which nobody will bat an eyelid if you've arrived fresh from the beach. And then, of course, there is that view.
Eventually, we drag ourselves away and, in the just-fading light, begin the steep journey over the hill back towards St Ives, happy, replete but not remotely weighed down by dinner. For all the abundance, there is a lightness to the whole experience: in the food, in the room and in the way the place wears its considerable ambition. We leave already discussing when we might return. Next time, perhaps, in winter to warm our cockles by that fireplace.
FAQs: MOR By Tom Sellers
What is MOR at Carbis Bay?
MOR is the new restaurant from two Michelin-starred chef Tom Sellers at Carbis Bay Estate near St Ives. Its name means 'sea' in Cornish, reflecting both its spectacular coastal location and a menu built around Cornwall's seafood, meat and seasonal produce.
Who is Tom Sellers?
Tom Sellers is the chef-patron of two Michelin-starred Restaurant Story in London. He first cooked at Carbis Bay Estate in 2019 with his Story by the Sea pop-up and returned in 2026 to open MOR.
What kind of food does MOR serve?
MOR's cooking is rooted in Cornish produce, particularly fish and seafood. The menu includes hot and cold small plates alongside larger fish, seafood and meat dishes, with a raw bar and charcoal grill central to the kitchen.
Is MOR suitable for children?
Very much so. Despite the sophistication of the cooking and service, MOR is notably relaxed and family-friendly. There is an excellent children's menu, while thoughtful touches make younger diners feel genuinely included in the experience.
Does MOR have vegetarian options?
Yes. Seasonal vegetables are an important part of the menu, including produce grown specifically for MOR in its on-site kitchen garden. As the menu changes according to season and availability, it is worth checking the current offering when booking.
Is MOR good for a special occasion?
Absolutely. Between Tom Sellers' cooking, polished service and the extraordinary floor-to-ceiling views across Carbis Bay, MOR has all the ingredients for a memorable celebration – without the formality sometimes associated with restaurants operating at this level.
Where is MOR?
MOR is at Carbis Bay Estate, just outside St Ives in Cornwall, overlooking Carbis Bay's white-sand beach and the Atlantic beyond.
Do you need to book MOR in advance?
Advance booking is strongly recommended, particularly during the summer months. MOR serves lunch and dinner and, given its location and Tom Sellers' reputation, tables are likely to be in considerable demand.
