What
The first Bar Kroketa restaurant opened on Beak Street in Soho a couple of years ago with a simple and hugely effective USP: kroketas (not ‘croquetas’) and cocktails, at reasonable prices and in a setting that meant that the average diner did not linger for more than a couple of each. It was an unequivocal hit. A swift follow-up second opened on St Christopher’s Place in Marylebone, and now the third has come to Broadgate Circle in the City. Forget grabbing a quick Pret before your train and enter, instead, the age of quasi-Catalan cheer for office workers and commuters alike.
The Vibe
Bar Kroketa Broadgate buzzes with the authentic atmosphere of a Spanish tapas bar and, if you ignore the noise from a Saturday night crowd outside, it’s just about possible to imagine at a squint that you are in Barcelona or San Sebastian. In any case, what you eat and drink here is of the highest level, from the ‘Ezpata Old Fashioned’ that kicks off the meal along with a mixed platter of jamon, chorizo, goat’s cheese and figs. It sets the tone for a splendidly accomplished, fairly priced romp through Spanish cuisine that surely makes this the go-to spot for tapas in the City.
What’s Cooking
The kroketas here are, of course, the main draw, with a generous selection ranging from the traditional (jamon, goat’s cheese) to the more esoteric (chicken, complete with chicken skin). Keenly priced at £7.50 for a pair, they’re substantial enough to count as a starter – and delicious into the bargain. Pair them with a couple of snacks from the ‘kitchen’ section (oh, they do love their alliteration) such as padron peppers and patatas bravas, plus a bottle of deliciously crisp Albariño from the short, well-chosen (and naturally Spanish) wine list, and you’ve got quite the treat.
More substantial options await, too, at higher prices. We feasted greedily on the special of aged sirloin with chimichurri and padron peppers, while a super-fancy range of octopus croquetas (or ‘kroketas’) fully justified the larger ticket. Alas, the bottomless brunch earlier that day had cleared out the chocolate kroketas, but excellent churros stepped in – and a plateful of those with a couple of glasses of Pedro Ximénez brought a perfect close to a wonderfully paced, wholly satisfying meal.
The Crowd
We visited on a Saturday evening, when a busy, chatty bunch were kicking off their nights in style. On weekdays, the buzz is no less lively – just swapped for City workers unwinding after a long day with Bar Kroketa’s sizzling, transporting delights.
The Verdict
We were in and out in 90 minutes, felt replete and happy, and the whole kaboodle was considerably cheaper and easier than flying to Barcelona. Nobody, on this evidence, would begrudge Bar Kroketa becoming a staple of your neighbourhood, as long as the quality stays at this superlative level.
By Alex Larman
