Dry January is a divisive thing, with the numbers of those undertaking it with fervour roughly equivalent to those who decry it, the latter camp wondering why anyone would chose to so punish themselves through the hardest, coldest and most impoverished month of the year. If, however, you have remained on the wagon, whether clinging on for dear life or sitting serenely atop it, then rejoice: the end of the month is in sight, as is a date with the kind of bar that fizzes not only with champagne but also with life. As for us, we have seen it dutifully through, but have found, as we always do, that we do miss the conviviality of a drink at a pub or bar of a weekend.

To that end, we have been eyeing up some cool new destinations in town for the most anticipated tipple of the year.

Little Cellars, Camberwell




From the people behind the hugely popular Peckham Cellars comes a new sister establishment. Little Cellars serves up a pleasingly pared-back menu of snacks and plates (all delicious), but the star of the show here is the wine, which has a focus on provenance, organic farming and sustainability. The aesthetic, meanwhile, is minimal yet warm – our favourite thing. Book it.


Nessa, Soho




A new neighbourhood bar and restaurant on the corner of Brewer and Warwick Street, Nessa is captained by the hugely clever executive chef Tom Cenci. The food is, of course, brilliant. But we recommend coming for the ultra-chic bar too (design comes courtesy of Fettle), where a mid-century aesthetic pervades. The cocktails are impeccable and the whole affair is dazzlingly glam; the perfect spot to don a worthy cocktail frock and grab a pew at the bar to chat, glug and people-watch to your heart’s content. Book it.


Larry’s Bar At The National Portrait Gallery


Larry

A good cocktail in atmospheric surrounds is precisely what we’re usually hankering post an hour or so of imbibing a good dose of culture. And that is exactly what one can now get – and in some style, too – thanks to the subterranean Larry’s Bar At The National Portrait Gallery, a new addition post the gallery’s huge refurbishment. Under the auspices of The Daisy Green Collection, which specialises in bringing relaxed Australian foodie culture to London, it has a sultry, speakeasy vibe, while offering stellar cocktails, such as the The Hepburn (a White Lady) and The Cecil Beaton (Dubonnet and gin), and serving up morsels such as Clarence Court Scotch eggs and Australian Wagyu party pies. Book it.


Stereo, Covent Garden




One of 2023’s most crowd-pleasing new openings for night owls was Covent Garden’s Stereo, a New York-channelling, 600-seater mega hit of a place, straddling the restaurant, bar and nightclub nexus with nonchalant ease. Between throwing shapes on the dancefloor and gobbling up American-style food (think hot wings and fried chicken) by chef Andrew Clarke, do head to the bar for some excellent cocktails, such as the Californication, a heady mix of Tapatio Blanco tequila, red pepper, agave, chipotle tincture and Two Keys pink grapefruit soda. Go for the 360-degree bar alone, it’s worth it. Book it.


Joia, Battersea




We love it when a bar comes in a) an iconic building, and b) with a view. Joia ticks both boxes, housed as it is within the freshly revamped Battersea Power Station and offering stellar vistas from its rooftop. Joia, a restaurant, bar and rooftop bar, occupies three floors, all presided over by sensational two Michelin-starred Portuguese chef, Henrique Sa Pessoa. We love the soothing pastels of the interior, the knock-out views towards those famous chimneys, and the wonderful cocktails – do try the Perola (peach shrub, Lillet Blanc, rhubarb, Champagne). Book it.


Bar Rioja, King’s Cross




If the drink to break your dry January stint must, non-negotiably, be Spanish wine, then hot foot it to Bar Rioja in King’s Cross, where a glass of the titular vino of the region will await you. Tucked away down a little courtyard, it exudes Spanish charm, with its aesthetic simplicity (think lots of wood and exposed brick), which is enhanced by flourishes in the form of decorative Spanish tiles. There are 43 riojas on the menu to try, which you can slowly work your way through while nibbling on chef Nacho del Campo’s stellar pincho-style snacks. Book it.

By Nancy Alsop
January 2024