Ahmedabad, in eastern Gujarat, is a city of fascination and contrast, with a range of excellent contemporary and heritage hotels.

With its spectacular 15th century architecture, visitors can wander through the winding lanes of the old city. The ‘pols’ or self-contained communities include old havelis, many with finely carved wooden decoration. Several have been restored and can be visited. The Jami Masjid, with its tranquil interior, is one of the great mosques of India.

FABRIC LOVERS

Ahmedabad’s fortunes were built on cotton production and the city is a honey pot for fabric lovers. The Calico Museum, owned by the Sarabai Trust, houses the greatest collection of textiles in India. Here you can see Shah Jehan’s tent and many antique and exquisite embroideries from all over India. The Calico also has a fine collection of Cholla bronzes from Tamil Nadu. Gandhi was born in Gujarat and the Sabarmati Ashram, on the banks of the river, was his home for several years. The ashram has a fine museum and exhibition of photographs of the great man’s life.

Gujarat is famous for its stepwells and just outside the city is Queen Roopba’s magnificent stepwell at Adalaj. Built on five floors with beautiful carvings of birds and flowers, it has provided water and shelter for passing travellers for centuries.

BEAUTIFUL MOSQUES

Within easy reach of Ahmedabad are the palace and museum of Vadodora (Baroda). Baroda was one of the great kingdoms of India and the royal palace is open to the public. At nearby Champaner, a world heritage site, are the remains of the late 14th and early 15th century capital, with two beautiful mosques and great city walls. Another excursion from Ahmedabad offers the chance to see the splendid Rani Ki Vav stepwell at Patan, where double ikat silk weavers are still at work in the nearby town.

From Patan it is possible to drive on to Kachchh (Kutch), with its dry and rocky landscape, a meeting point of cultures from Rajasthan, Gujarat, and Sindh. The arid grasslands are home to a number of pastoral tribes, famous for their weaving and embroidery work. The Rann Riders Hotel in Dasada offers good and authentic accommodation.

CITY ARTISANS

Bhuj lies at the centre of Kachchh and though damaged by an earthquake, its palaces still remain. Within the old city artisans still produce shawls in tie-dyed silk. From Bhuj it is but a short drive to the seaside town of Mandvi, famous for its beaches and shipbuilding. There are direct flights from Bhuj to Mumbai for your onward journey.

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13 January 2010