New Zealand on a Budget

Keen to avoid the post-Christmas blues, Poppy Gilroy set off for New Zealand on a budget of just over £1000, planning to work and backpack her way around for two months. Here's how she fared…

‘New Zealand is just like Britain 50 years ago,' was a recurring comment when I spoke of my plans to abscond there at the start of 2009, but the general tone was one of nostalgia for a better way of life. I was intrigued and apprehensive as with no income and a budget of just over £1000 for two months I was relying on a lifestyle based on better for less.

Trailfinders quickly solved the flight dilemma, finding me one with Air Korea at almost half the cost quoted by other airlines. This airline, although sympathetic to my bank balance, and punctual to the second, provided a punishing lack of comfort, and the discomfort was not appeased by a selection of inedible meals. Nonetheless, I was delivered to my destination with efficiency if not extravagance.

BUSING IT

Public transport in New Zealand is brilliant: cheerful, punctual and predictable - perhaps like Britain 50 years ago… Take the Kiwi Experience bus at its word: it will take you on a 24/7 party around both islands, stopping for bungee jumps, sky dives, and whale watching, not to mention the obligatory pub and club stops. For those keen to spare their livers, then the intercity and naked buses provide a reliable and good value alternative. These were my modes of transport and I learnt that by booking online I could not only guarantee that buses would stop, but find cheaper deals when booking a few days in advance. Bus drivers are enthusiastic and amiable in New Zealand, often acting as impromptu tour guides, with charming or gory ad lib anecdotes thrown in. Hitching is a temptingly cheap alternative, but locals will strongly advise against it, particularly on North Island. However, if you learn of people in your hotel or backpackers that are going the same way as you, most will be willing to accommodate a passenger.

CHEAP HOSTELS

Backpackers Hostels vary in quality, but the backpacker's guide, widely available, will indicate reliably what level of service is provided. Two of the best I stayed in were, On the Beach in Whitianga on the Coromandel Peninsula and Hat Trick Lodge in Motueka, near the bus stop. Both were clean with good bedroom and kitchen facilities, although two nights spent sharing with four snoring middle-aged Italian ladies put a slight blight on Motueka; for backpackers, earplugs are an invaluable investment. Prices for most backpackers varied from approximately $6-$35 dollars per night, with free bicycle or kayak hire often included for any residents - On the Beach had both these facilities, while Hat Trick provided rented bicycles.

NATIONAL PARK TREK

New Zealand has an enormous amount to offer, and if skydiving and bungee jumping are not for you, then the National Parks appeal to all. Most have camping or government hut facilities, the equivalent of mountain bothy's in Scotland, and there are generally good walking tracks catering for a range of fitness levels and ability. The Abel Tasman National Park is one of the smallest in New Zealand, but for $40 a four day trek will take you all along the North West coast of the South Island, through some of the most dramatic scenery.

FINDING WORK

New Zealand is a great place to travel around on a budget and temporary work is available on farms, vineyards and fruit orchards to name but a few. Finding work through friends and contacts prior to departure was how I ended up on a high country farm near Lake Hawea mustering sheep and red deer. Farm work proved an amazing way to see parts of the country that I would otherwise never have got close to. That said, saintly patience and a healthy does of ‘grit' are required for this type of work: merino sheep are bolshy creatures, and dealing with a thousand a day in temperatures averaging 30 degrees gave me a whole new outlook on sheep farming and farmers.

IDEAL ESCAPE

Surrounded by ripe orchards and vineyards, white sandy beaches and breath-takingly beautiful mountains, all within reach of each other, there are few better places to escape over winter than New Zealand - even if your budget is low. January, February and March are glorious months to be down under: it is mid-end of summer, the weather is warm and the rush of Christmas tourism is coming to an end. As I look ahead to the cold dark early months of 2010, I can safely say that I know where I would rather be.

GETTING THERE AND GETTING ABOUT:

Trailfinders. Return London Heathrow to Auckland via Seoul with Air Korea, £725 + £99 for travel insurance www.trailfinders.co.uk

Intercity bus service. Booking early meant these were cheapest and most reliable. For example, Picton (South Island) to Kaikoura was $16 non-refundable - $35 fully refundable, www.intercity.co.nz

Naked Bus, from Rotorua to Tauranga Centre, $12. www.nakedbus.com

Kiwi Experience, full details available on www.kiwiexperience.com

PLACES TO STAY:

On the Beach, Whitianga from $23 per person per night. www.coromandelbackpackers.com

Hat Trick Lodge, Motueka, from $22 per person per night. www.hattricklodge.com

Picton Lodge, really handy as it is only about 50 metres from the ferry terminal if you get in late at night or have an early morning ferry. $12 for shared accommodation per night. www.pictonlodge.co.nz   

Albatross Backpacker Inn in Kaikoura - quite loud but central. Approx $25 per night. www.albatross-kaikoura.co.nz

Charlie B's Backpackers in Christchurch - very busy, but clean and great location. Approx $28 per night. www.charliebs.co.nz

Sunset Lodge in Taupo - friendly but pretty grubby, they will come and pick you up from the bus stop. Approx. $28 per night. www.sunsetlodgetaupo.co.nz

BOOKS AND BOOKINGS:

Backpackers Guide, are free in tourist information sites.

National Parks, use www.doc.govt.nz for booking trails and huts.

8 December 09