Claire Macdonald and her love of Scotland

Claire Macdonald is the chatelaine of Kinloch Lodge on the Isle of Skye. Originally a hunting lodge, this romantic house has been in her husband's family, the Macdonalds of Macdonalds, for many generations. Set at the foot of a mountain and directly above a sea loch, you could not hope to find a more perfect paradise. Along with her husband, Godfrey, they have made Kinloch Lodge into a hotel with a fine reputation that stretches well beyond the shores of Skye, with a ranking as one of the best hotels in the world.

The Good Web Guide caught up with Claire Macdonald in London where she was publicising her new books, Solo Entertaining and Scottish Highland Hospitality, both of which are selling like hot cakes as we approach Christmas.

Claire is a long-established, authoritative food writer who spends much of her time lecturing and demonstrating, when she is not overseeing the running of Kinloch. She is also the author of fifteen best-selling cookery books. Although born in Lancashire, she lives and breathes for Scotland and is a fierce exponent of the country's produce and cooking. As Clare says, ‘Quite simply, Scottish foods are the best in the world.'

Kinloch Lodge
Neither Claire nor Godfrey have a formal training in hotel management or catering. They just knew exactly the sort of welcome they wanted to give their guests. She readily admits that they are both still learning the trade, even after thirty successful years. The food has a reputation all of its own. She is a cook first and foremost and her culinary talents have made Kinloch Lodge Hotel and her books, the success that they are. Claire states determinedly, ‘I am not a chef. I strongly believe there is a difference. We are a team of cooks, and our desire is to produce food, which is a treat to eat, but we bow to no current culinary fashion.'

Everything is homemade from the breakfast scones and marmalade to the fudge they serve with coffee after dinner (a recipe of Kinloch fudge appears in Solo Entertaining). Claire's one weakness is that she has a very sweet tooth and adores puddings. Visitors to Kinloch have benefited from this and the puddings have a reputation that goes before them.

Scottish Highland Hospitality
Claire's face glows when she talks about her adopted homeland and the opportunity to work on a book that promotes Scotland's culinary uniqueness must have been heaven sent. Scotland's tourism has taken a bit of a downturn in the past few years. Up until recently the Scottish Tourist Board were using golf to promote Scotland, virtually bypassing all its other attractions, the excellent food and of course, the wonderful scenery. It is the last wilderness area in Europe. When she was approached by Black and White Publishing, she was delighted that she could help put together a book that sung the country's culinary praises.

Continuity in the kitchen
The book is not chef orientated. Claire was looking for continuity in the kitchen where the owners either work themselves or have a strong influence. Also the chef had to have been at that establishment for a year. Godfrey and Claire worked on the criteria that there must always be a warm welcome, such as you find at Kinloch. Working their way through various guidebooks, they were able to draw up a shortlist. They then set off on their tour round the Highlands and islands in search of some gems.

Guidebooks
Interestingly, the Macdonalds have always avoided inclusion in guides, such as the Good Food and Good Hotel Guides. She feels that these guidebooks tend to prioritise and standardise too wildly, sometimes giving totally the wrong impression. On one or two occasions, they came across establishments that fell way short of the mark and were at a loss as to why they had been praised so highly in print.

This project has clearly given Claire a huge sense of satisfaction as she has weaved her way through the dramatic landscape, discovering things that they didn't know existed and visiting old friends. Much heartache was caused as Claire was limited to writing about only twenty establishments and so she has had to leave several favourites out. There is a section at the back, which lists some of these.

The entries in Scottish Highland Hospitality reflect Claire's taste and high standards but there is great diversity with the inclusion of small and intimate establishments to grander and more flamboyant concerns. The people featured in this book are inspired by their work and you can rest assured that you will always find a warm welcome. They all make use of the wonderful fish and shellfish that is abundant and pay particular attention to local produce.

Each establishment has chosen their favourite dishes for a three-course meal along with wine suggestions. Claire can't understand why there are five recipes for lemon tart but then if it's one of the restaurant's signature dishes, why not?

Some of Claire's favourites
Many of the chefs featured are self-taught and this perhaps reflects Claire's own approach to cooking and food. Linda and Diarmuid Wood at Leachin House on the Isle of Harris run a dinner, bed and breakfast. Linda is a self-taught cook, who teaches French locally, as well as managing to cook for all her guests.

During the summer months, the House of Bruar serves between two to three thousand people every day yet the food remains at a consistently high standard. The food hall at Bruar, which is in Blair Atholl, is an Aladdin's cave of gourmet treats.

Or what about Daniel Richardson, only sixteen yet creating food of the highest standard and with great flair at the Loft Restaurant in Blair Atholl. Claire is bowled over by this young chap, who at the age of twelve was a finalist in Junior Masterchef. He was then given a special dispensation to leave school early as there was no doubting his determination to succeed. The food at the Loft is truly outstanding in every aspect, with produce all sourced locally.

Of course, Claire is passionate about every establishment that she has chosen in Scottish Highland Hospitality and if you are planning a trip to this wonderful land, it is more than worthwhile arming yourself with this book.

Solo entertaining
Claire was approached by a number of friends to write a book on entertaining single-handed. The alarming statistic that over forty per cent of the population live alone goes to show that there is a huge market for such a book. Not only for solo hosts but for those who want time to enjoy their guests, as well as serving scrumptious food, Solo Entertaining might be the answer. The majority of the recipes can be prepared well in advance and with Claire's trademark use of seasonal ingredients, you can't go wrong. The recipes are stylish, inspirational and just that bit different.

Parsnip, lime and ginger soup is a delicious variation on an old theme. The lime and ginger give the soup that je ne sais quoi that will have everyone guessing. At her demonstrations, Claire continually says, ‘It is such a waste not to flavour pastry.' This is perfectly illustrated by red onion cream tart with walnut and Parmesan pastry. The walnuts provide some crunch and flavour while the Parmesan adds to the pastry's crispness. You could always try the toasted pecan pastry used for the raspberry tart.

Pink grapefruit and avocado salad with herb and red onion vinaigrette can be made in advance as long as you brush the avocado with grapefruit juice and then cover the dish with clingfilm. This pretty looking salad is excellent when served with fish. The stir-fried beetroot with orange, shallots and balsamic vinegar and grilled goat's cheese is wonderful with game or as a simple first or main course. Claire loves using marmalade in her cooking and this time she has teamed it with pheasant breast marinated and baked in red wine and orange. Delicious.

You could not wish to meet a more charming person. Claire is incredibly glamorous and warm hearted. She is passionate about Scotland, food and life. Time spent in her company is invigorating and fun. You get the impression that everything she does is probably done with consummate ease, yet with a perfectionist's eye of attention to detail.

A stay at Godfrey and Claire's hotel, Kinloch Lodge, must be sheer pleasure.

Details of Claire Macdonald's demonstrations and cooking weekends at Kinloch can be found on her website, www.claire-macdonald.com.

Publishing details:
Entertaining Solo
287 pp. Photography by Jean Cazals. £20
ISBN 0593050223. Published by Bantam Press.
2002

Scottish Highland Hospitality
246 pp. Photography by Stephen Kearney. £25
ISBN 1902927400. Published by Black and White Publishing.
2002

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