Piri Piri Starfish by Tessa Kiros

The plaudits for Tessa Kiros' books always come thick and fast and here in Piri Piri Starfish, she is true to form. You couldn't wish for a more evocative cookbook as she carefully unravels Portugal's culinary history.

Portuguese food is often bypassed, Spanish cuisine always getting more attention but this book shows that it is definitely worth a detour, firmly putting Portugal on the culinary map. Tessa uprooted her family and went to live in Portugal; the book is part travelogue, part cookbook, interwoven with atmospheric photographs of places she visited and of the food she enjoyed cooking.

She clearly fell in love with the place, people and food where cinnamon and cloves, coriander, peppers, feijoada and coffee with steak feature. The food is humble, drawing on its past and the influences of both its explorers and the people passing through. Portugal is a land of bay leaves, bacalhau and piri piri.

Bachalhau is salt cod that was introduced to Portugal in the 16th century when Portuguese explorers reached Newfoundland. There are 365 recipes for bachalhau but thankfully, not all in this book. You will find authentic recipes using some of their staple ingredients including chourico, pork sausage with paprika and of course piri piri. This hot chilli pepper, originally from Angola, is used to make a fiery oil that is dribbled almost every dish.

Piri Piri Starfish is an enchanting journey and for some through unchartered waters, but one worth taking. Tessa Kiros has woven a rich patchwork of recipes that have heart and deserve a place on every table. As Jill Dupleix said of one of her previous books, 'One of the most beautiful cookbooks I have ever seen', this too is equally beautiful and every bit as useful.

Publication details:
Murdoch Books
£22.50
ISBN 1740459091
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