Crazy Water Pickled Lemons by Diana Henry

The eye-catching title of this book certainly achieves its aim and the contents therein do not disappoint. Diane Henry has done her homework as Crazy Water Pickled Lemons looks as though it is here to stay. A collection of recipes from the Mediterranean, Middle East and North Africa flood the pages making it a book of the senses. Smell and taste the markets in North Africa or lavender scorching under a Provencal sun.

It has all the hallmarks of a Mitchell Beazley publication or perhaps it is Jason's Lowe's photography that make it so instantly definable. For this new book is seriously evocative of the countries it reminisces over, as much as Ursula Ferrigno's books, Bringing Italy Home and Truly Italian, bathe the reader in a golden aura of Italian landscapes.

Take time to read Henry's introductions to each chapter and if that isn't enough, the literary extracts dotted throughout the book will provide many a happy diversion. ‘It is winter now … but the oranges, tangerines and lemons are all ripe; they burn in this clear atmosphere - the lemons with gentle flames, the tangerines with bright flashes, and the oranges sombre.' An extract taken from The Letters of Katherine Mansfield, Volume I. This thought provoking stuff makes a cookbook go beyond its genre and makes its value even greater. What a service Crazy Water Pickled Lemons performs, taking itself out of the kitchen and onto a higher plain all together. With quotes from D.H. Lawrence, Simone de Beauvoir, M.F.K. Fisher and Pablo Neruda to name just a few, it is a pleasure to read and that is before we even start to consider the recipes.

The title of the book is taken from Crazy Water, a fish soup from the Amalfi Coast whilst Pickled Lemons have all the mystery of the Middle East. One of the qualities of the book is its adaptation of traditional recipes so that they fit comfortably into our own kitchens. Consider simmering sausages with pancetta, onions and lentils and serving alongside braised figs, which have been cooked in three vinegars (red, balsamic and sherry) and cinnamon. A more delicious combination you could not wish for.

Labneh is just drained Greek yoghurt. Add a little icing sugar and cinnamon to the yoghurt. Strain it in cheesecloth for twenty-four hours, squeezing it occasionally. Serve with stewed fruit or in a savoury dish, such as bulgar and spinach with chilli roast tomatoes.

For those with a delight of all things sticky, you have to try Middle Eastern orange cake, made with puréed whole unpeeled oranges. It produces a sweet and golden moist cake. And for the sophisticated palate, lemon and basil ice cream is the answer.

These examples are only amuse-gueules to tempt you to buy this book: all the recipes are excellent and you will not squander your money. Crazy Water Pickled Lemons deserves to succeed. Expect to see it shortlisted for the Guild of Food Writers' Awards and the Glenfiddich next year. The Good Web Guide is putting its money where its mouth is and before long we will have tried all recipes. We urge you to do the same.

Publication details
192 pp. Photography by Jason Lowe. £20
Published by Mitchell Beazley
ISBN 1840005017
2002

Order directly from for great service and specially discounted prices.