The River Cottage Cookbook by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall

You might well think of scones and jam with this title, but hold on to your cleavers as this is the X-rated version. If you are of a squeamish nature, this book may not be for you. Just turn the pages and a gust of the purest fresh air hits you between the eyes. The River Cottage Cookbook is full of energy and fun but carries a serious message. Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall believes that we all have the right to exercise choice and that we should question what we buy and eat. And in an ideal world, be self-sufficient. Moreover, that we should really enjoy food.

The book has been published in association with Channel 4's third River Cottage series. Hugh took his family off to Dorset to live at River Cottage and live off the land. This book tells of his experiences, either foraging the hedgerows or shooting rabbits. You will certainly learn something from reading this book.

The River Cottage Cookbook is wickedly politically incorrect and I don't think Cherie will be giving it to Tony for his birthday. Who else but Hugh F-W would dare to give instructions on how to despatch a chicken from this world. Or tell you how to skin a rabbit. The whole ethos of the book is just so refreshing. It is definitely not precious and the recipes that Hugh includes are robust and full of flavour. Ever wondered how to make boudin noir or air drying your own ham, Hugh can tell you how.

However, the River Cottage Cookbook is not just recipes. Hugh shares his enthusiasm for country life and all the joys (and despairs) that it can bring. It is principally a manual for those that enjoy this rural idyll and have the luck to live in the country. With broad advice on keeping livestock (cattle, pigs, poultry and sheep), even devotees in suburbia might take up the good life. But townies needn't feel ignored or inadequate just because they live in a street. Hugh gives good advice on where they can find quality food (Farmers' Markets) and in some cases, grow their own vegetables. There is hope for everyone.

The River Cottage Cookbook is a hugely entertaining read. The photographs by Simon Wheeler are enchanting with images of Hugh chasing chickens, fishing in the River Brit and of course, snaps of his menagerie. You can't help but think that they have all probably ended up on the table. But Hugh's animals have had a wonderful life. They have been loved and cherished, had the freedom that animals deserve and no doubt, have been slaughtered in the most humane way.

The River Cottage Cookbook has to be The Cookbook of the Year. You will not find a more entertaining and enlightening read than this.

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Publication Details:
447 pages. Photography by Simon Wheeler. £19.99.
Published by Harper Collins.
ISBN 0002202042
2001

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